Day 34: Bob and Mark join forces in Journey's End in Istanbul and cross into Asia
The final day, when Bob rode into Istanbul and met up with Mark, before the boys crossed the Bosphorous into Asia for a celebration meal and just a few beers. During his final 25 miles, Bob repeated Mark's experience with the traffic and gradient of the hills into the former city of Constantinople. However, they disagreed as to who exactly were the worst drivers they had encountered over more than 2,500 miles. For Mark (and despite strong competition from Serbian White Man) Turkish taxi and small bus drivers won the competition by a large margin. Their capacity to deliberately cut you up was a perverse splendour to behold. And similarly, the use of indicators as optional extras would bring a smile to the face of any executive German made car owner, back in the UK.
Meeting at the Galata Bridge on the European side of Istanbul, the boys toured the most famous sights of the city: the Aya Sofya, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque. Thereafter, they took one of the many ferries across the Bosphorous and tucked into that meal
And that's about it folks. Mark is hoping to fly back to England on Monday. Whilst Bob is planning to spend a week in Istanbul, before catching a train to Budapest in Hungary and then cycling all the way back to Britain. Between them, they have cycled more than 5,000 miles across Europe to the edge of Asia. And despite Mark's diversion along the Danube, Bob's total mileage has come in at only 50 miles less.
Finally, if you have already sponsored Bob and Mark in their efforts to raise money for the new Marie Curie West Midlands Hospice in Solihull, many thanks for doing so. And if not, can you please consider doing so via the JustGiving link on this blog. Thank you for reading and your support. Over and out!
Saturday 17 August 2013
Friday 16 August 2013
Day 33: Silivri to Istanbul and Luleburgas to Buyukcekmece, Turkey
This should have been an easy final day for Mark - with just 50 miles to cover before journey's end in Istanbul. Nevertheless, a number of factors conspired to delay his arrival: late departure from the Park Hotel in Silivri; poor signage; lack of a hard shoulder, steep hills; horrendous traffic; and the worst drivers in Europe. Oh yes, the aforementioned Serbian White Van Man is a mere amateur compared to Turkish drivers in the Istanbul metropolis and its region.
During the final 10 mile leg into the otherwise signless Istanbul, fellow cyclist Ismail (returning home after a day's work as an aircraft technician at Istanbul Airport), demonstrated how it should be done. Cyclists are required to dominate the road in the same manner that motor vehicles do. The trouble with that philosophy is how in the event of a 'bump', the cyclist will inevitably come off worse. And as Ismail reported his cycling helmet had been stolen...
The net result was that instead of arriving in Istanbul at the projected 4 pm, Mark was photographed on the Golden Horn Bridge at 7.30 and made it to Taksin Square (yes, the one that's been in the news in recent months) 30 minutes later. Bob has since reported that his stint from Luleburgas was marred by the same headwind coming off the Black Sea. He is now overnighting it in the 'seaside resort' of Buyukcekmece, before his final ride into Istanbul.
Two words describe the landscape covering the 50 miles between Silivri and Istanbul: urban sprawl. Some fields and farming remain, but for the most part this land is one of light industry and residential development. Much of the latter consists of guarded communities - although for the most part the pill-boxes contained no security guards. Moreover, any attempt to enter these new villages to find a coastal route to Istanbul, was met with failure.
This should have been an easy final day for Mark - with just 50 miles to cover before journey's end in Istanbul. Nevertheless, a number of factors conspired to delay his arrival: late departure from the Park Hotel in Silivri; poor signage; lack of a hard shoulder, steep hills; horrendous traffic; and the worst drivers in Europe. Oh yes, the aforementioned Serbian White Van Man is a mere amateur compared to Turkish drivers in the Istanbul metropolis and its region.
During the final 10 mile leg into the otherwise signless Istanbul, fellow cyclist Ismail (returning home after a day's work as an aircraft technician at Istanbul Airport), demonstrated how it should be done. Cyclists are required to dominate the road in the same manner that motor vehicles do. The trouble with that philosophy is how in the event of a 'bump', the cyclist will inevitably come off worse. And as Ismail reported his cycling helmet had been stolen...
The net result was that instead of arriving in Istanbul at the projected 4 pm, Mark was photographed on the Golden Horn Bridge at 7.30 and made it to Taksin Square (yes, the one that's been in the news in recent months) 30 minutes later. Bob has since reported that his stint from Luleburgas was marred by the same headwind coming off the Black Sea. He is now overnighting it in the 'seaside resort' of Buyukcekmece, before his final ride into Istanbul.
Two words describe the landscape covering the 50 miles between Silivri and Istanbul: urban sprawl. Some fields and farming remain, but for the most part this land is one of light industry and residential development. Much of the latter consists of guarded communities - although for the most part the pill-boxes contained no security guards. Moreover, any attempt to enter these new villages to find a coastal route to Istanbul, was met with failure.
Day 32: Havsa to Silivri/Erdine to Luleburgaz with 2,500 miles now covered
Bob made the sensible decision to spend the morning and early afternoon surveying the mosques and sights of antiquity in the city of Erdine. Meanwhile, Mark escaped soon after 7am from his no star hotel with the cunning plan of beating the headwind - which to date has always arisen in the late morning. But not today. Because after passing the 4,000 Kms/2,500 miles point before 8 o'clock, half an hour later a ferocious and unrelenting headwind came back with a vengeance. Locals informed him that it was coming directly off the Black Sea - now less than 50 miles to the east.
At least Route 100 is a recently upgraded dual carriageway with a substantial hard shoulder on which to cycle safely. And there are frequent fuel stations with air conditioned shops selling water and fruit drinks. However, 10 miles short of the city of Silivri the hard shoulder disappears and Mark found himself fighting with HGV's once again. Indeed, one such lorry, its horn blaring, forced him off the road - a nightmare last experienced in Chile almost 20 years ago.
With the Muezzin (correction of yesterday's spelling) wailing from the minarets, Mark made it into Silivri - a coastal city on the Sea of Marma (the northern right-hand tip of the Mediterranean) just as the sun was setting. Bob later texted to say that he too had done battle with the mighty headwind and had called it a day in the city of Luleburgaz - some 60 miles back along Route 100.
One of the great features of today's cycling has been the hundreds of roadside stalls selling fruit and vegetables - primarily watermelons and tomatoes. Travelling through the city of Corlu, Mark had stumbled across its market - still in full swing in the late afternoon. More than a dozen different types of melon were on sale, together with every other form of fruit and vegetable imaginable. He counted ten different types of sultana and once again bought a juicy and enormous peach for the equivalent of 7p
Bob made the sensible decision to spend the morning and early afternoon surveying the mosques and sights of antiquity in the city of Erdine. Meanwhile, Mark escaped soon after 7am from his no star hotel with the cunning plan of beating the headwind - which to date has always arisen in the late morning. But not today. Because after passing the 4,000 Kms/2,500 miles point before 8 o'clock, half an hour later a ferocious and unrelenting headwind came back with a vengeance. Locals informed him that it was coming directly off the Black Sea - now less than 50 miles to the east.
At least Route 100 is a recently upgraded dual carriageway with a substantial hard shoulder on which to cycle safely. And there are frequent fuel stations with air conditioned shops selling water and fruit drinks. However, 10 miles short of the city of Silivri the hard shoulder disappears and Mark found himself fighting with HGV's once again. Indeed, one such lorry, its horn blaring, forced him off the road - a nightmare last experienced in Chile almost 20 years ago.
With the Muezzin (correction of yesterday's spelling) wailing from the minarets, Mark made it into Silivri - a coastal city on the Sea of Marma (the northern right-hand tip of the Mediterranean) just as the sun was setting. Bob later texted to say that he too had done battle with the mighty headwind and had called it a day in the city of Luleburgaz - some 60 miles back along Route 100.
One of the great features of today's cycling has been the hundreds of roadside stalls selling fruit and vegetables - primarily watermelons and tomatoes. Travelling through the city of Corlu, Mark had stumbled across its market - still in full swing in the late afternoon. More than a dozen different types of melon were on sale, together with every other form of fruit and vegetable imaginable. He counted ten different types of sultana and once again bought a juicy and enormous peach for the equivalent of 7p
Thursday 15 August 2013
Day 31 Topolovgrad/Jambol in Bulgaria to Havsa/Edirne in Turkey
The boys have at long last reached their final country: Turkey. Bob continued down the Red Route 7 and entered Turkey en route to Edirne. Whilst Mark left Topolovgrad and via Svilengrad and Kapitan Andreevo, left Bulgaria at a border crossing where enormous (yet similarly sized) flags of Bulgaria, Turkey and the EU were flying.
Edirne is the first major city in Turkey the traveller from Bulgaria or Greece will pass through and might be described as one of Mosques and Minarets. Indeed, it is especially beautiful and contains the 'finest mosque in Turkey' - according to Bob. As Mark cycled out soon after 5pm, the calls to prayer of repeated Mujhuaddin could be heard.
Back in Topolovgrad, Mark had met Archie the pet Macaw. Now in old age he has lost most of the feathers on his chest - something of a metaphor for the Imperial Hotel whose green coloured swimming pool looked less than inviting than it did last night. The steak that tasted like 'veal substitute' should have been a clue. And what's the betting that this place used to be a 'People's Rest and Recuperation Centre' back in the Communist days. But last night it was a true haven in a country where the past is mouldering away.
The boys have at long last reached their final country: Turkey. Bob continued down the Red Route 7 and entered Turkey en route to Edirne. Whilst Mark left Topolovgrad and via Svilengrad and Kapitan Andreevo, left Bulgaria at a border crossing where enormous (yet similarly sized) flags of Bulgaria, Turkey and the EU were flying.
Edirne is the first major city in Turkey the traveller from Bulgaria or Greece will pass through and might be described as one of Mosques and Minarets. Indeed, it is especially beautiful and contains the 'finest mosque in Turkey' - according to Bob. As Mark cycled out soon after 5pm, the calls to prayer of repeated Mujhuaddin could be heard.
Back in Topolovgrad, Mark had met Archie the pet Macaw. Now in old age he has lost most of the feathers on his chest - something of a metaphor for the Imperial Hotel whose green coloured swimming pool looked less than inviting than it did last night. The steak that tasted like 'veal substitute' should have been a clue. And what's the betting that this place used to be a 'People's Rest and Recuperation Centre' back in the Communist days. But last night it was a true haven in a country where the past is mouldering away.
Tuesday 13 August 2013
Day 30: Veliko Tarnovo to Topolovgrad & Popovo to Jambol - in Bulgaria
Bob reports that he had a long (93 miles) ride to Jambol, Bulgaria, on good roads and that the mountains were easier than expected. Whereas Mark's 97 mile route through the Stara Planina was marred by HGV's using the minor road as a short-cut between motorways. Later in the day he found himself in the back of Bulgarian beyond, cycling on the worst roads anywhere in Europe to date. The EU's writ does not appear to have reached some parts of Bulgaria's hinterland.
Anyway, by this evening Bob is in Jambol and Mark in Topolovgrad, both close to the border with Turkey - into which final country they will each cross tomorrow. Discussions have taken place as to the crossing point they will use. Strangely enough, there are not that many to choose from and one Dutch cyclist travelling in the opposite direction reported that he had entered the northern tip of Greece from Turkey, before cycling into Bulgaria.
On the subject of other cyclists whose paths the boys have crossed, Mark was cycling through the mountains this morning when he was passed by a road bike who said he was a contestant in the London to Istanbul Bike Race. Quite apart from the fact that road bike tyres are not best suited for this terrain (a 4 kilometre section of cobbled road marks the route south of Nova Zagora), he is the only competitor encountered as yet.
And finally, if you want to send an email of support to Bob and Mark, please do so via aconcagua@virginmedia.com
Bob reports that he had a long (93 miles) ride to Jambol, Bulgaria, on good roads and that the mountains were easier than expected. Whereas Mark's 97 mile route through the Stara Planina was marred by HGV's using the minor road as a short-cut between motorways. Later in the day he found himself in the back of Bulgarian beyond, cycling on the worst roads anywhere in Europe to date. The EU's writ does not appear to have reached some parts of Bulgaria's hinterland.
Anyway, by this evening Bob is in Jambol and Mark in Topolovgrad, both close to the border with Turkey - into which final country they will each cross tomorrow. Discussions have taken place as to the crossing point they will use. Strangely enough, there are not that many to choose from and one Dutch cyclist travelling in the opposite direction reported that he had entered the northern tip of Greece from Turkey, before cycling into Bulgaria.
On the subject of other cyclists whose paths the boys have crossed, Mark was cycling through the mountains this morning when he was passed by a road bike who said he was a contestant in the London to Istanbul Bike Race. Quite apart from the fact that road bike tyres are not best suited for this terrain (a 4 kilometre section of cobbled road marks the route south of Nova Zagora), he is the only competitor encountered as yet.
And finally, if you want to send an email of support to Bob and Mark, please do so via aconcagua@virginmedia.com
Monday 12 August 2013
Day 29: Turno Magurele in Romaia to Veliko Tarnovo/Popovo in Bulgaria
Both the boys are now inside Bulgaria, heading south-east towards the border with Turkey. Having photographed the Catedrala Sfantul Haralambie in Turno Magurale, Mark diced with death over 3 miles of cobbles to the Dunarea/Dunav and caught the 9am ferry across to Nikopol in Bulgaria.
Indeed, after following the course of the river for more than two weeks, it was like saying goodbye to an old, lugubrious friend. No time on this trip to see the Pelicans and Flamingos in the Danube Delta on the edge of the Black Sea. Perhaps in the future?
Click here to listen to The wonderful 'Blue Danube' by Johann Strauss
Thereafter it was the now usual arduous slog along poorly maintained country roads in intense heat and humidity - especially by mid-afternoon. Thankfully, the roadside rubbish of Serbia and to a lesser extent Romania, was now absent. And the flag of the European Union, festooned at every town and village you entered in Romania, was in Bulgaria largely absent.
One interesting experience. Mark tried to change his Hungarian Forints, Croatian Kuna and Serbian Dinara at a Bulgarian bank in the town of Levski. They weren't interested. Sterling and Euros yes: anything else, certainly not!
Both the boys are now inside Bulgaria, heading south-east towards the border with Turkey. Having photographed the Catedrala Sfantul Haralambie in Turno Magurale, Mark diced with death over 3 miles of cobbles to the Dunarea/Dunav and caught the 9am ferry across to Nikopol in Bulgaria.
The unusual spiral towers at the Catedrala Sfantul Haralambie in Turnu Magurele,
Romania
A final goodbye to the Danube
Click here to listen to The wonderful 'Blue Danube' by Johann Strauss
Thereafter it was the now usual arduous slog along poorly maintained country roads in intense heat and humidity - especially by mid-afternoon. Thankfully, the roadside rubbish of Serbia and to a lesser extent Romania, was now absent. And the flag of the European Union, festooned at every town and village you entered in Romania, was in Bulgaria largely absent.
Roadside memorial to a Bulgarian Airforce Pilot
One interesting experience. Mark tried to change his Hungarian Forints, Croatian Kuna and Serbian Dinara at a Bulgarian bank in the town of Levski. They weren't interested. Sterling and Euros yes: anything else, certainly not!
Echinops/Globe Thistle growing wild in Bulgaria
Sunday 11 August 2013
Day 28: From Calafat to Turnu Magurele in Romania and Corabia to Svistov in Bulgaria
At long last the temperatures have cooled. It has even been raining this morning! Bob caught the ferry from Corabia in Romania and is now overnighting it in the Bulgarian city of Svistov. Whilst Mark undertook a 108 mile stint eastwards from Calafat and is staying in the town of Turnu Magurele. By tomorrow morning both will be in Bulgaria - country no. 11 for Mark, 9 for Bob.
Cycling along this southern edge of Romania, the overwhelming sense is of an agrarian landscape that has changed little in centuries. Linseed and Maize (corn-on-the-cob) are supreme, but hundreds of roadside stalls selling watermelons and tomatoes are indicative of the agricultural heritage of this region. As are the horse-drawn carts that are constantly in view. Here it is the norm to wave at everyone and shout "Hello!" Indeed, if you don't respond accordingly, the natives get upset. And on the sad side, too many children (and on occasion adults) have been tutored to ask for cash as a default response.
The Danube has rarely been in sight today - or indeed since leaving Austria. The guidebooks claim this to be a 'Danube Bike Ride' but in reality, once 20 miles east of Bratislava in Slovakia, the route simply follows ordinary roads. Some of these are extremely dangerous, with jugernauts and massive lorries of every European nationality sharing the route. A bit naughty that and in Romania, even the Bike Ride signs have disappeared.
At long last the temperatures have cooled. It has even been raining this morning! Bob caught the ferry from Corabia in Romania and is now overnighting it in the Bulgarian city of Svistov. Whilst Mark undertook a 108 mile stint eastwards from Calafat and is staying in the town of Turnu Magurele. By tomorrow morning both will be in Bulgaria - country no. 11 for Mark, 9 for Bob.
Cycling along this southern edge of Romania, the overwhelming sense is of an agrarian landscape that has changed little in centuries. Linseed and Maize (corn-on-the-cob) are supreme, but hundreds of roadside stalls selling watermelons and tomatoes are indicative of the agricultural heritage of this region. As are the horse-drawn carts that are constantly in view. Here it is the norm to wave at everyone and shout "Hello!" Indeed, if you don't respond accordingly, the natives get upset. And on the sad side, too many children (and on occasion adults) have been tutored to ask for cash as a default response.
Bringing in the Hay
The Danube has rarely been in sight today - or indeed since leaving Austria. The guidebooks claim this to be a 'Danube Bike Ride' but in reality, once 20 miles east of Bratislava in Slovakia, the route simply follows ordinary roads. Some of these are extremely dangerous, with jugernauts and massive lorries of every European nationality sharing the route. A bit naughty that and in Romania, even the Bike Ride signs have disappeared.
And the road goes straight for 20 miles
Saturday 10 August 2013
Day 27: TO CALAFAT & CORABIA IN ROMANIA
Despite the ongoing problems with the heat and 8 days of Danube headwind, both boys made sound progress of some 80 miles+ eastwards along Romania's southern border. As a result, Bob has now reached Corabia and Mark is in Calafat - both cities on the northern bank of the Danube. To the south lies Bulgaria and the final country they will need to pass through before entering Turkey and journey's end at Istanbul.
Another immensely tiring day, made worse by the absence of signage and guidebooks that leave a lot to be desired. What began as a mere suspicion has now been confirmed: the people who write these guidebooks have never actually cycled them. Grossly inaccurate information: wrong distances; and long steep hills that do not get a mention, are reminiscent of the cycling quangos back in the UK who devise routes with the unexpected result of putting people off cycling. And when the suggested route is infested with heavy goods traffic, a lifetime fear of cycling can be easily envisaged.
Despite the ongoing problems with the heat and 8 days of Danube headwind, both boys made sound progress of some 80 miles+ eastwards along Romania's southern border. As a result, Bob has now reached Corabia and Mark is in Calafat - both cities on the northern bank of the Danube. To the south lies Bulgaria and the final country they will need to pass through before entering Turkey and journey's end at Istanbul.
Another immensely tiring day, made worse by the absence of signage and guidebooks that leave a lot to be desired. What began as a mere suspicion has now been confirmed: the people who write these guidebooks have never actually cycled them. Grossly inaccurate information: wrong distances; and long steep hills that do not get a mention, are reminiscent of the cycling quangos back in the UK who devise routes with the unexpected result of putting people off cycling. And when the suggested route is infested with heavy goods traffic, a lifetime fear of cycling can be easily envisaged.
Horse on the limitless Romanian plains
Romanian Gnomes for sale in Calafat
Soon, the boys will have to leave the Danube and cycle across Bulgaria towards Turkey. The Mistral-like headwind may accelerate that decision. But for now, Bob and Mark continue to ride eastward and aim to make Istanbul by the end of next week.
Friday 9 August 2013
Day 26: 2,000 MILES PASSED WITH BOB IN CALAFAT AND MARK IN DROBETA-TURNU SEVERIN
Big news event of the day is that both Bob and Mark have now cycled more than 2,000 miles each. However, whilst Mark called it a day late afternoon in the Romanian town of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, Bob has pushed on to Calafat - where on the opposite side of the Danube lies Bulgaria, their penultimate country before Turkey.
As you can gather, Mark survived his night at the B&B and wasn't fed to the family pig! Shame on him for fearing the worst. Nevertheless, his ten past seven departure marked the earliest of the tour as yet for himself. After cycling through more than a dozen road tunnels, time for a 9am coffee in the bustling market town of Donji Milanovac, before heading north-west through the Danube Gorge. Here, the cliffs rise to almost 600 metres and at one point the Danube is only 150 metres wide and 82 metres deep - the deepest of any river in the world.
And as the road continues to rise, across the Danube in Romania can be seen the rock carving of Decabulus Rex - King of Dacia in the first century AD.
Apart from the roadside rubbish (more so than in any other country witnessed), the biggest issue for cyclists in Serbia is the standard of driving - especially by White Van Men. This might be laughable, except for the number of roadside shrines. Almost all of these relate to young men who died in their 20's and are most often located at hazardous points along the road. Their photos are often included and in one instance, against the backdrop of his sports car - almost certainly the instrument of his death. It's all extremely sad and tragic.
Big news event of the day is that both Bob and Mark have now cycled more than 2,000 miles each. However, whilst Mark called it a day late afternoon in the Romanian town of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, Bob has pushed on to Calafat - where on the opposite side of the Danube lies Bulgaria, their penultimate country before Turkey.
Romanian Gnomes for sale in Calafat
As you can gather, Mark survived his night at the B&B and wasn't fed to the family pig! Shame on him for fearing the worst. Nevertheless, his ten past seven departure marked the earliest of the tour as yet for himself. After cycling through more than a dozen road tunnels, time for a 9am coffee in the bustling market town of Donji Milanovac, before heading north-west through the Danube Gorge. Here, the cliffs rise to almost 600 metres and at one point the Danube is only 150 metres wide and 82 metres deep - the deepest of any river in the world.
Danube Gorge at its narrowest
And as the road continues to rise, across the Danube in Romania can be seen the rock carving of Decabulus Rex - King of Dacia in the first century AD.
Rock carving of Decabulus Rex
Apart from the roadside rubbish (more so than in any other country witnessed), the biggest issue for cyclists in Serbia is the standard of driving - especially by White Van Men. This might be laughable, except for the number of roadside shrines. Almost all of these relate to young men who died in their 20's and are most often located at hazardous points along the road. Their photos are often included and in one instance, against the backdrop of his sports car - almost certainly the instrument of his death. It's all extremely sad and tragic.
Day 25: Smederevo to Dobra in Serbia/ andBerzasca in Romania
The boys' separate routes are now converging - albeit on opposite sides of the Danube. And by Thursday evening Bob was staying B&B in the Romanian village of Berzasca. Whilst Mark was discovering the delights of a Bates Motel establishment in the small hamlet of Dobra, Serbia on the other side of the river.
His route had taken him from the metropolitan sophistication of Smederevo, via an open-cast coal-mining environment more in tune with the movie Bladerunner. Pipes and conveyor belts criss-crossed the landscape to bring coal to the power station that digested these massive amounts of fuel. The main road had been diverted and its replacement was the most rutted so far encountered. All this to get to the Ottoman Fortress at the town of Ram, where across the Danube, Romania could now be seen.
Thankfully, the landscape then quickly changed and heralded the real Danube Gorge as the river enters the Serbian Carpathian Mountains. At Golubac Castle the road actually passes through the former portcullis and thereafter the river begins to narrow.
Both Bob and Mark have encountered some fantastic accommodation during their 25 days on the road. In particular, the 502 Club Hotel in Kalocsa, Hungary. And Jurini Dvori's B&B in Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia. However, tonight's offering provided good food but no water to wash or shower. And having been introduced to the family's pet pig (a sow Mark was informed would be butchered in December) he became convinced that he was said pig's next meal. Obviously, the animal did not like freshly washed food!!!
The boys' separate routes are now converging - albeit on opposite sides of the Danube. And by Thursday evening Bob was staying B&B in the Romanian village of Berzasca. Whilst Mark was discovering the delights of a Bates Motel establishment in the small hamlet of Dobra, Serbia on the other side of the river.
Serbian art of the Soviet style
Boats on the Danube outside Belgrade
Thankfully, the landscape then quickly changed and heralded the real Danube Gorge as the river enters the Serbian Carpathian Mountains. At Golubac Castle the road actually passes through the former portcullis and thereafter the river begins to narrow.
Golubac Castle at the entrance to the Danube Gorge
Both Bob and Mark have encountered some fantastic accommodation during their 25 days on the road. In particular, the 502 Club Hotel in Kalocsa, Hungary. And Jurini Dvori's B&B in Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia. However, tonight's offering provided good food but no water to wash or shower. And having been introduced to the family's pet pig (a sow Mark was informed would be butchered in December) he became convinced that he was said pig's next meal. Obviously, the animal did not like freshly washed food!!!
Serbian Hayricks
Wednesday 7 August 2013
Day 24: Novi Sad to Smederevo, Serbia; and Timisoara to Oravita, Romania
The Boys routes are beginning to merge as Bob tracks south through Romania and Mark east in Serbia. However, the heat has become unbearable and in one bar mid-afternoon the locals showed Mark a thermometer reading 46 degrees C. They told him it was too hot to cycle and kept buying his beer. Eventually and having given away six JOGLE badges, Mark was able to escape.
Much of today's cycling in Serbia has been amongst fields laden with fruit trees. And the purchase of some delicious pears from a stall outside a family home, testified to the quality of the fruit being sold. None of those tiny specimens in which the supermarkets of the UK now excel in foisting on the British public. Nevertheless, across Europe personal witness now testifies how one crop alone has accounted for 80 per cent of that being grown: Linseed. Sunflowers come a poor second but there is of course a connection: vegetable oil. Shame then that cycling past any field growing Linseed invariably involves great plagues of flying aphids.
Tomorrow Bob and Marge will both converge on the Danube, albeit it at separate points. And with 3,000 kilometres each now covered, the final destination of Istanbul is all but within sight. As a provisional date, sometime towards the end of next week is looking better than optimistic.
The Boys routes are beginning to merge as Bob tracks south through Romania and Mark east in Serbia. However, the heat has become unbearable and in one bar mid-afternoon the locals showed Mark a thermometer reading 46 degrees C. They told him it was too hot to cycle and kept buying his beer. Eventually and having given away six JOGLE badges, Mark was able to escape.
Much of today's cycling in Serbia has been amongst fields laden with fruit trees. And the purchase of some delicious pears from a stall outside a family home, testified to the quality of the fruit being sold. None of those tiny specimens in which the supermarkets of the UK now excel in foisting on the British public. Nevertheless, across Europe personal witness now testifies how one crop alone has accounted for 80 per cent of that being grown: Linseed. Sunflowers come a poor second but there is of course a connection: vegetable oil. Shame then that cycling past any field growing Linseed invariably involves great plagues of flying aphids.
Delicious peaches for sale in Croatia
Tomorrow Bob and Marge will both converge on the Danube, albeit it at separate points. And with 3,000 kilometres each now covered, the final destination of Istanbul is all but within sight. As a provisional date, sometime towards the end of next week is looking better than optimistic.
Tuesday 6 August 2013
Day 23: Knezevi Vinogradi in Croatia to Novi Sad, Serbia/Timisoara, Romania
The boys are still making their separate ways to Istanbul. Bob has now left Hungary and reached Timisoara, Romania. Whilst Mark has journeyed through Croatia via Vukovar (with its battle-scarred water tower) and crossed the Danube into Serbia. Twenty-five miles later he is 'holed-up' in Novi Sad.
Interestingly, nationalism was much on display in Croatia, with the flag flying from many houses and all public buildings: parallels with Northern Ireland? Plenty of evidence of EU funding of projects in Croatia too. Whereas is Serbia, EU membership still awaits. Most importantly, the peoples of both countries are extremely courteous and friendly - unlike some further west.
The boys are still making their separate ways to Istanbul. Bob has now left Hungary and reached Timisoara, Romania. Whilst Mark has journeyed through Croatia via Vukovar (with its battle-scarred water tower) and crossed the Danube into Serbia. Twenty-five miles later he is 'holed-up' in Novi Sad.
The battle scarred water tower memorial to the civil war in Vukovar, Croatia
Interestingly, nationalism was much on display in Croatia, with the flag flying from many houses and all public buildings: parallels with Northern Ireland? Plenty of evidence of EU funding of projects in Croatia too. Whereas is Serbia, EU membership still awaits. Most importantly, the peoples of both countries are extremely courteous and friendly - unlike some further west.
Svetlana and Jurini Dvori at their brilliant B&B in Knezevi Vinogradi,
Croatia
Smells have been a feature of this 'expedition' to date. In England and Belgium, the scent of Privat blossom was often over-powering. But after leaving the Ardennes in Belgium, cow manure was the order of the day. As it was being spread on the fields at the height of summer, small wonder flies were breeding by the billion. Thankfully, that ceased once we passed into Slovakia and ever since more 'delicate' odours have been discernible: hay being harvested; the torporous scent of the river; and in Novi Sad this evening, cold tea. All very heart-warming for this most under-rated of the senses.
Irrigation device in Vardarac, Croatia
Monday 5 August 2013
Day 22: Kalocsa in Hungary to Croatia and/or near the Romanian border
Another day when temperatures hit the low 40's by mid-afternoon. In practical terms, this means cycling in short bursts and taking on board at least a litre of fluids every hour. Even then, the sweat pours off you - much to the attraction of every flying insect known to man.
With the best IT connection of the trip so far, Mark said goodbye to Olivia and Andreas (the manager) at the splendid 502 Club Hotel in Kalocsa, and headed off across the Paprika fields. Through the Nemzeti and Beda Karapansca national parks he spotted a pair of Buzzards and plenty of the usual suspects: Swifts, Swallows and Collared Doves. In Baja Mark bought delicious green grapes from a roadside stall, and a 'Radler' in Baja.
Late in the day, Mark crossed the border into Croatia (the first time he had to show his passport since leaving Dover almost three weeks ago) and after cycling a further 25 miles, landed in the wine-producing town of Knezevi Vinogradi. No riding off the beaten track in these parts though: the Danube (now the Dunav) marks the border with Serbia and signs warn of unexploded land mines!!!
Another day when temperatures hit the low 40's by mid-afternoon. In practical terms, this means cycling in short bursts and taking on board at least a litre of fluids every hour. Even then, the sweat pours off you - much to the attraction of every flying insect known to man.
With the best IT connection of the trip so far, Mark said goodbye to Olivia and Andreas (the manager) at the splendid 502 Club Hotel in Kalocsa, and headed off across the Paprika fields. Through the Nemzeti and Beda Karapansca national parks he spotted a pair of Buzzards and plenty of the usual suspects: Swifts, Swallows and Collared Doves. In Baja Mark bought delicious green grapes from a roadside stall, and a 'Radler' in Baja.
Mark, Olivia and Andreas (the Manager) at the 502 Club Hotel
Like many parts of Eastern Europe, there used to be large German communities (Swabians) residing in these areas. Many were forced to leave after the Second World War, but those that remained can often by identified by the triple-language road signs (Hungarian, German and Serbo-Croat) as in Vaskut/Waschkut/Baskut. Meanwhile, Bob was heading further into Hungary and getting ever closer to the border with Romania.
Paprika Manufacturing
Mark's route took him through Mohacs - the scene in 1526 of the battle in which King Louis II of Hungary was defeated by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. As the King had no children, his title passed to the Austrian Royal Family, the Habsburgs, who subsequently defeated the Turks in the Second Battle of Mohacs in 1687 - and thus the Austro-Hungarian Empire was born.
Lady selling Watermelons, Grapes and Nectarines
The temperature at 12.55 pm: itgot much hotter!
Late in the day, Mark crossed the border into Croatia (the first time he had to show his passport since leaving Dover almost three weeks ago) and after cycling a further 25 miles, landed in the wine-producing town of Knezevi Vinogradi. No riding off the beaten track in these parts though: the Danube (now the Dunav) marks the border with Serbia and signs warn of unexploded land mines!!!
Sunday 4 August 2013
Day 21: Budapest to Kalocsa - world capital of the Paprika trade
It must be hot. The tarmac is melting and this afternoon, one temperature guage was seen to register 41 degrees centigrade! Bob cycled 90 miles from Lake Balaton to Kecel. Whilst Mark repeated the difficulty in escaping from Vienna and only scored 89 miles. Both are amazing distances in view of the heat - with copious litres of water consumed during the day.
Mark's final destination was the town of Kalocsa - capital of the world trade in Paprika, together with the surrounding 32 villages. Well known as the main ingredient in the likes of Hungarian Goulash, turns out this spice is derived from Chilli Peppers which were in turn brought from South America. Consequently, whilst it was grown along the Danube in Turkish times, only in the 18th century was it adopted as a staple part of Hungarian cuisine.
Talking about the Danube, in Germany and Austria the river was never better than green in colour (reflecting the surrounding trees). In the Austrian capital it is invariably grey or brown. But once across the border into Slovakia and now Hungary, it is genuinely blue. Therefore Johann Strauss the younger got it right when he named his most famous waltz, 'The Blue Danube'.
One final point of note for today, Bob was a silth-like 60-something when he started this excursion. Whereas, Mark was on the lardy side. Not anymore. To date he has lost 16 lbs. Anyone else fancy the crash-course marathon bike ride diet? Tomorrow, into Croatia.
It must be hot. The tarmac is melting and this afternoon, one temperature guage was seen to register 41 degrees centigrade! Bob cycled 90 miles from Lake Balaton to Kecel. Whilst Mark repeated the difficulty in escaping from Vienna and only scored 89 miles. Both are amazing distances in view of the heat - with copious litres of water consumed during the day.
Mark's final destination was the town of Kalocsa - capital of the world trade in Paprika, together with the surrounding 32 villages. Well known as the main ingredient in the likes of Hungarian Goulash, turns out this spice is derived from Chilli Peppers which were in turn brought from South America. Consequently, whilst it was grown along the Danube in Turkish times, only in the 18th century was it adopted as a staple part of Hungarian cuisine.
Talking about the Danube, in Germany and Austria the river was never better than green in colour (reflecting the surrounding trees). In the Austrian capital it is invariably grey or brown. But once across the border into Slovakia and now Hungary, it is genuinely blue. Therefore Johann Strauss the younger got it right when he named his most famous waltz, 'The Blue Danube'.
One final point of note for today, Bob was a silth-like 60-something when he started this excursion. Whereas, Mark was on the lardy side. Not anymore. To date he has lost 16 lbs. Anyone else fancy the crash-course marathon bike ride diet? Tomorrow, into Croatia.
No Farm Vehicles, Horse-drawn Vehicles or Bicycles!
Water-melons by the kilo
Parliament Building in Budapest
Saturday 3 August 2013
Day 20: Komaron in Hungary to the capital Budapest - and Lake Balaton
The boys have now covered more than 1500 miles and are consequently more than 60 per cent of the way through their quest. Bob has headed south and this evening is camping on the shores of Lake Balaton - Hungary's largest lake. Whilst Mark has continued to follow the Danube and has reached the national capital, Budapest.
That heat-wave that affected the UK a few days back has now reached central Europe. In practical terms, any breeze blowing across a black tarmac surface magnifies the heat so that on occasion this afternoon, temperatures above 40 degrees centigrade were being experienced. And to add salt to the wound, said road surface is becoming increasingly pot-holed as we move further east.
Mark's route took him via Estergom which with its domed Basilica is known as 'Hungary's Rome'. Hungary's first king, Stephen, was crowned here in the year 1,000. But in 1249 the Mongol invasion arrived; the Tartars in the Thirteenth Century; and the Turks were only evicted in 1683.Thereafter, some great cycling along the 'Danube Bend' before (unfortunately) having to follow the main road for much of the way into Budapest - 80 miles in total today. Approaching the capital, thousands of Hungarians were bathing in the river or adjacent swimming pool complexes, before heading home as the light began to fade.
Incidentally, only we Brits and other English language speakers refer to the river as the Danube. In Germany and Austria it is called the Donau; in Slovakia and the Czech Republic as the Dunaj; and in Hungary the Duna. Apparently, such differences date back to mediaeval times and trade between the European countries.
The boys have now covered more than 1500 miles and are consequently more than 60 per cent of the way through their quest. Bob has headed south and this evening is camping on the shores of Lake Balaton - Hungary's largest lake. Whilst Mark has continued to follow the Danube and has reached the national capital, Budapest.
That heat-wave that affected the UK a few days back has now reached central Europe. In practical terms, any breeze blowing across a black tarmac surface magnifies the heat so that on occasion this afternoon, temperatures above 40 degrees centigrade were being experienced. And to add salt to the wound, said road surface is becoming increasingly pot-holed as we move further east.
Mark's route took him via Estergom which with its domed Basilica is known as 'Hungary's Rome'. Hungary's first king, Stephen, was crowned here in the year 1,000. But in 1249 the Mongol invasion arrived; the Tartars in the Thirteenth Century; and the Turks were only evicted in 1683.Thereafter, some great cycling along the 'Danube Bend' before (unfortunately) having to follow the main road for much of the way into Budapest - 80 miles in total today. Approaching the capital, thousands of Hungarians were bathing in the river or adjacent swimming pool complexes, before heading home as the light began to fade.
The Basilica in Estergom - 'Hungary's Rome'
Incidentally, only we Brits and other English language speakers refer to the river as the Danube. In Germany and Austria it is called the Donau; in Slovakia and the Czech Republic as the Dunaj; and in Hungary the Duna. Apparently, such differences date back to mediaeval times and trade between the European countries.
Friday 2 August 2013
Day 19: Bratislava in Slovakia to Komaron in Hungary
After the delights of Bratislava, time to post back home the maps so far used and no longer required before hitting the trail once again. For both Bob and Mark it turned into a slog of a day, fighting a head-wind from the east that easily costs 30% in terms of performance. To make matters worse, the heat-wave has returned and this afternoon temperatures approached 40 degrees C. And it's been warm back in Blighty you say?
At one point today the Danube was more than a mile wide, but this is due to the construction 20 years ago of the Gabcikovo-Nagymaros dams and hydro-electric project. Up on the dykes that protect the surrounding lower level land from the river, the head-wind was consequently at its fiercest.
More wildlife observed today: Swans, Storks (which are amazingly large close up), sea-birds somewhat incongruously (including Herring Gulls) and millions of Grasshoppers. But we don't count the Hydrofoil passenger ships connecting the major cities along the Danube.
Between Gabcikovo and Klizska Nema in Slovakia the cheapest (and good tasting) beer of the trip to date was discovered: 70 cents, 55p a pint. But these are poor farming communities which may in itself explain why signposting was poor and many of the few signs vandalized. Moreover, those of a certain age and who had experienced the Communist yoke, offered no greeting or response to any given. Are they denizens of a time when seeing and saying nothing was the best survival strategy. And remember, it's only 24 years since the 'Velvet Revolution' took place in the former Czechoslovakia.
After the delights of Bratislava, time to post back home the maps so far used and no longer required before hitting the trail once again. For both Bob and Mark it turned into a slog of a day, fighting a head-wind from the east that easily costs 30% in terms of performance. To make matters worse, the heat-wave has returned and this afternoon temperatures approached 40 degrees C. And it's been warm back in Blighty you say?
At one point today the Danube was more than a mile wide, but this is due to the construction 20 years ago of the Gabcikovo-Nagymaros dams and hydro-electric project. Up on the dykes that protect the surrounding lower level land from the river, the head-wind was consequently at its fiercest.
More wildlife observed today: Swans, Storks (which are amazingly large close up), sea-birds somewhat incongruously (including Herring Gulls) and millions of Grasshoppers. But we don't count the Hydrofoil passenger ships connecting the major cities along the Danube.
Hydrofoil on the Blue Danube
Between Gabcikovo and Klizska Nema in Slovakia the cheapest (and good tasting) beer of the trip to date was discovered: 70 cents, 55p a pint. But these are poor farming communities which may in itself explain why signposting was poor and many of the few signs vandalized. Moreover, those of a certain age and who had experienced the Communist yoke, offered no greeting or response to any given. Are they denizens of a time when seeing and saying nothing was the best survival strategy. And remember, it's only 24 years since the 'Velvet Revolution' took place in the former Czechoslovakia.
Thursday 1 August 2013
Klosterneuburg in Austria via Vienna and a 4 mile nudist beach to Bratislava in Slovakia
Temperatures were back in the mid-30's today and both Bob and Mark took time out to visit the giant Ferris Wheel in the Prater district of Vienna. Indeed, it is known as the Wiener Riesenrad and was designed by the British engineer Walter B. Bassett. He designed others: in London, Blackpool, Paris and Chicago, but they have not survived. And those of a certain age will know the Viennese Ferris Wheel as a key feature in the movie, 'The Third Man'. No sign of Orson Welles today or of a zither player and THAT tune. Altogether now: dum-de-dum-de-dum, de dum, etc.
On the subject of nature red in tooth and claw, so far there hasn't been a great change in the type of birds and animals you expect to see back in the UK. Admittedly, there was that dead Beaver of a few days back and the occasional Buzzard or other bird of prey has been spotted. Oh, and some dark brown Squirrels and plenty of noisy Canada Geese. No change there then.
Having escaped that nightmare of the nudist colony, Bob and Mark cycled on to the border with Slovakia (country number 6) and the city of Bratislava. This is a real 'happening' place buzzing with history and tourists. Plus, with beer at around £1.40 a pint, it's easy to understand why Bratislava is the new stag and hen capital of Europe. And very civilised with it, if this Thursday evening was a fitting example.
Temperatures were back in the mid-30's today and both Bob and Mark took time out to visit the giant Ferris Wheel in the Prater district of Vienna. Indeed, it is known as the Wiener Riesenrad and was designed by the British engineer Walter B. Bassett. He designed others: in London, Blackpool, Paris and Chicago, but they have not survived. And those of a certain age will know the Viennese Ferris Wheel as a key feature in the movie, 'The Third Man'. No sign of Orson Welles today or of a zither player and THAT tune. Altogether now: dum-de-dum-de-dum, de dum, etc.
Vienna Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel)
Greater shocks lay in wait for the boys as they each attempted to exit the city independently. The route took them down a Danube-side 4 mile long nudist colony! Never have so many potential beached whales in various shades of lobster bisque and lizard like folds of flesh been on public view. We're talking over a thousand such individuals (men and women) with hardly a soul under the age of 60 - although Bob disagrees on the figure. The only person missing from the scene was Captain Ahab sporting a rictus grin and a harpoon gun!
On the subject of nature red in tooth and claw, so far there hasn't been a great change in the type of birds and animals you expect to see back in the UK. Admittedly, there was that dead Beaver of a few days back and the occasional Buzzard or other bird of prey has been spotted. Oh, and some dark brown Squirrels and plenty of noisy Canada Geese. No change there then.
Having escaped that nightmare of the nudist colony, Bob and Mark cycled on to the border with Slovakia (country number 6) and the city of Bratislava. This is a real 'happening' place buzzing with history and tourists. Plus, with beer at around £1.40 a pint, it's easy to understand why Bratislava is the new stag and hen capital of Europe. And very civilised with it, if this Thursday evening was a fitting example.
The Novy Most Bridge and viewing platform in Bratislava
Helpful Bike Shop and machine dispensing six types of innertube out of hours
Mark beside the statue of Johann Strauss the Younger in Vienna
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