Day 23: Knezevi Vinogradi in Croatia to Novi Sad, Serbia/Timisoara, Romania

The boys are still making their separate ways to Istanbul.  Bob has now left Hungary and reached Timisoara, Romania.  Whilst Mark has journeyed through Croatia via Vukovar (with its battle-scarred water tower) and crossed the Danube into Serbia.  Twenty-five miles later he is 'holed-up' in Novi Sad.

The battle scarred water tower memorial to the civil war in Vukovar, Croatia

Interestingly, nationalism was much on display in Croatia, with the flag flying from many houses and all public buildings: parallels with Northern Ireland?  Plenty of evidence of EU funding of projects in Croatia too.  Whereas is Serbia, EU membership still awaits.  Most importantly, the peoples of both countries are extremely courteous and friendly - unlike some further west.

Svetlana and Jurini Dvori at their brilliant B&B in Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia

Smells have been a feature of this 'expedition' to date.  In England and Belgium, the scent of Privat blossom was often over-powering.  But after leaving the Ardennes in Belgium, cow manure was the order of the day.  As it was being spread on the fields at the height of summer, small wonder flies were breeding by the billion.  Thankfully, that ceased once we passed into Slovakia and ever since more 'delicate' odours have been discernible: hay being harvested; the torporous scent of the river; and in Novi Sad this evening, cold tea.  All very heart-warming for this most under-rated of the senses.

Irrigation device in Vardarac, Croatia