Day 15: a 100 mile stroll in Bavaria from Kelheim to Windorf near Passau

At long last the heat-wave has broken and produced far more comfortable temperatures in which to cycle.  Even the odd spot of rain has fallen.  Bob reports that he is now near Salzburg, Austria.  Whilst Mark will leave Germany and cross into Austria first thing in the morning.

A day for making fast, relaxing progress along the Danube in its most languid of conditions.  Each town produced new variants on the clock tower come fairy tale castle scene.  Regensburg could easily double for Cologne.  But the favourite was in the city of Staubing where at 3 pm the most complicated of ring tones ever heard played the whole of one aria from Mozart's 'The Magic Flute'.

The historical centre of Regensburg

A mild climate: Angels Trumprts/Datura/Brrugmansia

Clock Tower in Straubing playing Mozart's 'Magic Flute' on the hour

With 1,800 Kilometres (1,125 miles) now under the belt in theory half the distance to Istanbul has now been covered.  However, as previously described, Mark's route will add at least 200 more miles - and consequently several more days cycling. 

Day 14: Hochstadt in Baden Wurtemburg to Kelheim in Bavaria

Bob is now close to the Austrian border, whereas Mark still has over 100 miles to go, having cycled a mere 83 miles today.  It may have something to do with the heat.  Temperatures have once again exceeded 38 degrees - causing sunburn to Mark's back despite wearing a white cycling top.  And Bob reports how slightly further south, it may have reached  46 degrees centigrade!

Interesting countryside hereabouts.  The Rhineland/Saxon architecture has now given way to predominantly modern designs - with the exception of farm buildings and churches.  Most villages in Bavaria also have a massively tall Maypole painted blue and white - similar to the red and white variant in Welford-on-Avon, Warwickshire.  Except, the Bavarian ones are adorned with local coats of arms or pictorial representations of the occupations of those who reside in the village: farmer, butcher, painter, etc.

Maypole in Bavaria

The heat requires frequent stops for refreshment - water and nothing stronger than a Radler (that's a Shandy in English).  But very small meals too: wurst and bread being a favourite (OK, a sausage sarnie).  And with the Danube now the width of a football pitch, it was still surprising to see a dead Beaver by the side of the road.  And sadly, dozens of Hedgehogs.

Roadside shrine in Baden Wurtemberg

After a massive climb uphill (this Danube cycleway isn't always easy sailing, especially with the insects biting), a downhill 40mph spree into mediaeval Kelheim where it seems the river cruisers and industrial barges are prevented from going any further upstream along the Danube. 

Route-finding in Bavaria is difficult:  the bottom right icon denotes the Donau-Radweg

Day 13: Sigmaringendorf in the Black Forest to Hochstadt in Baden Wurtemberg

Another very hot day with temperatures topping 38 degrees centigrade this afternoon.  However, the big story is that Bob and Mark are now travelling separate routes.

Cliff-side church as the river winds through the limestone gorge

Bob favours cycling due east by road on the logical basis that this is more direct and will consequently take less time.  Whereas, after Thursday's dangerous ride into the Black Forest, when the boys were fighting with multi-axled lorries and their horns, Mark is taking the far safer and easier Donau-Radweg - the bike route that follows the Danube.  This will inevitably add 200+ miles to the route, but he believes it is worth it on grounds of safety and observing the landscape in detail.  And thus there was an amicable parting at Herbertingen.

Mark's 184 Km (102.5 miles) bike ride took him out of the Black Forest and into Baden Wurtemberg,  The Danube is now sufficiently wide for dams, hydro-electric power-plants and a great many holiday camps.  There were literally hundreds of Germans swimming or kayaking down the river - and in the heat who could blame them.  But the bike route is also graced by trees that provide plenty of cover from the sun.  Mark finally called it a day in the town of Hochstadt and Bob reports he is close to Munich.  Sound progress by both individuals.

Day 12: Loffingen to the Source of the Danube and its first 100 Kilometres

This bike ride has travelled along three main river valleys: the Thames, Rhine and now the Danube.  Indeed, despite being less than half way along the overall route, the Danube will take the boys almost to journey's end - such is its length.  And  as befits such a historic location, at Donau Eschingen its supposed source was surrounded by building works!  A kilometre away and all but beneath a motorway flyover, the confluence of the two rivers, Brigach and Breg indicates what many regard as the official start of the Danube.  Although, the information panels describe (in German and English) that its near 3,000 Kilometre length is measured upstream from the Danube Delta on the Black Sea in Romania.

Bob and Mark at the 'confluence' (official start) of the River Danube

Bob and Mark left their Fawlty Towerseque hotel (no breakfast or staff before 8.30 am!) and cycled to Donau Eschingen, despite misdirected cycle route signs and roadworks.  At the Tourist Office they discovered a fantastic plasticated, concertina map for the Donau-Radweg (cycle route) covering the first 600 Kms as far as Passau on the Austrian border.  And having toured the sites of Donau Eschingen and sampled a small beer, they set off along the Radweg.

At first, the Danube was little more than a stream.  But as it progressed so did its width if not its vigour.  Indeed, in places it was a still as a millpond.  Within 25 miles the river enters a limestone gorge and the cycleway if forced uphill and down.  Cotswold stone like in colour, abandoned castles and occupied churches and houses can be seen on the cliff-side edge.  And in the valley Boy Scout camp tents had been erected.  Then the Danube emerges into calmer territory and at Sigmaringendorf, journey's end for the day, the charming Hotel Rogenboden and its angel of a proprietor, Ingrid.  Angel?  She washed the boys' disgustingly dirty clothes and hung them out to dry!!!

Day 11: Eguisheim in France crossing the Rhine to Freiburg in Germany and the Black Forest

Having cycled more than 1,200 Kms (750 miles) Bob and Mark are more than a third of the way on their quest to cycle from the West Midlands Marie Curie Hospice in Solihull to Istanbul and the edge of Europe.  However, as today's events unfolded there was plenty of evidence of the dangers to come.

Another sun-soaked morning in beautiful Eguisheim, Storks to be seen nesting on top of the Church tower and the tallest roofs. 

A stork in its nest (not on Mark's shoulder!)

Mark standing in the centre of Eguisheim, Alsace, France

A late start saw the boys head for Colmar and 15 miles later, cross the Rhine into Germany.  The city of Freiburg combines mediaeval architecture with modern eco-conservancy.  But it was the old city centre irrigation channels (Bachle) that caught the eye.  Young and old were paddling in these and playing with toy boats.  Only Ollantaytambo on the trail to Machu Picchu in Peru appears to have anything similar.

Unfortunately, late afternoon was spent dodging heavy traffic on the B31 as Bob and Mark wound their way into the heart of the Black Forest.  The cycle routes had disappeared and it was a hair-raising experience for much of the time.  Eventually the village of Loffingen was found and with it the Hexenschopf Hotel - from where this entry is being made.

Day 10: Saverne to Eguisheim in Alsace down the 'Routes des Vins'

The weather has finally broken, with rain first thing this morning and a heavy shower during the late afternoon.  And on the positive side, for the first time since this 'tour' began temperatures have not breached 30 degrees.

Yesterday the boys passed a war cemetery at Cutting, testimony to the Lorraine Offensive by the French Army in the August of 1914 and in which even the commanding officer was killed.  And this morning heading south from Saverne, a roadside memorial with both French and British flags flying honoured the deaths of two French soldiers and two Royal Air Force crew members - all of whom had died during the Second World War.

Cemetery at Cutting of those French Soldiers who fought in the Lorraine Offensive, August,1918

Memorial to 2 French Soldiers and 2 Royal Air Force Crew Members who died in 1944 during the Second World War

After such sadness, the start of the Alsace 'Routes des Vins' came as a welcome redress.  Highly picturesque territory between the Vosges mountains in the west and the Rhine to the east, the hillsides are emblazoned with vineyards specialising in wines like Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gawurtztraminer.  Plenty of 'degustation' tasting houses too, but as Bob and Mark are in no position to buy and carry bottles of wine, they were given a wide berth.

Sign for the 'Route des Vins' in Alsace

Finally, that most beautiful of 'Routes des Vins' villages, Eguisheim, came into view as the boys cycled the back route through the vinyards.  Seen at its best in the mid-evening sunlight, it was the perfect journey's end to an unexpectedly hard day's cycling.

Day 9: Metz in Lorraine to Saverne in Alsace via a parched landscape

No respite from the sun's rays for most of today as the boys headed south-east in the Department Moselle.  Throughout this journey to date evidence of the economic downturn has been ever present, with closed shops in every city and town passed through.  However, what has also been witnessed is the number of agricultural vehicles on the roads, as farmers across western Europe take advantage of the current heat-wave to bring in the harvest.

From the city of Metz, Bob and Mark passed through a litany of small villages along the D999, stopping for a breather in Morhange before continuing on the D27 and D38 to Fenetrange - sunflowers beginning to ripen in many of the fields along the route.  Once on the outskirts of Phalsbourg the change in architecture was discernible, with the chocolate box styles of the Rhineland becoming dominant.

With a repeat of last night's performance, a storm was now brewing and dust-clouds erupting.  In a final 6 mile dash the boys raced to Saverne, passing into Alsace and enjoying the four mile descent from the Col de Saverne.  They only just made it before the heavens opened once again.