Day 34: Bob and Mark join forces in Journey's End in Istanbul and cross into Asia

The final day, when Bob rode into Istanbul and met up with Mark, before the boys crossed the Bosphorous into Asia for a celebration meal and just a few beers.  During his final 25 miles, Bob repeated Mark's experience with the traffic and gradient of the hills into the former city of Constantinople.  However, they disagreed as to who exactly were the worst drivers they had encountered over more than 2,500 miles.  For Mark (and despite strong competition from Serbian White Man) Turkish taxi and small bus drivers won the competition by a large margin.  Their capacity to deliberately cut you up was a perverse splendour to behold.  And similarly, the use of indicators as optional extras would bring a smile to the face of any executive German made car owner, back in the UK.

Meeting at the Galata Bridge on the European side of Istanbul, the boys toured the most famous sights of the city: the Aya Sofya, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque.  Thereafter, they took one of the many ferries across the Bosphorous and tucked into that meal

And that's about it folks.  Mark is hoping to fly back to England on Monday.  Whilst Bob is planning to spend a week in Istanbul, before catching a train to Budapest in Hungary and then cycling all the way back to Britain.  Between them, they have cycled more than 5,000 miles across Europe to the edge of Asia.  And despite Mark's diversion along the Danube, Bob's total mileage has come in at only 50 miles less.

Finally, if you have already sponsored Bob and Mark in their efforts to raise money for the new Marie Curie West Midlands Hospice in Solihull, many thanks for doing so.  And if not, can you please consider doing so via the JustGiving link on this blog.  Thank you for reading and your support.  Over and out!

Day 33: Silivri to Istanbul and Luleburgas to Buyukcekmece, Turkey

This should have been an easy final day for Mark - with just 50 miles to cover before journey's end in Istanbul.  Nevertheless, a number of factors conspired to delay his arrival: late departure from the Park Hotel in Silivri; poor signage; lack of a hard shoulder, steep hills; horrendous traffic; and the worst drivers in Europe.  Oh yes, the aforementioned Serbian White Van Man is a mere amateur compared to Turkish drivers in the Istanbul metropolis and its region.

During the final 10 mile leg into the otherwise signless Istanbul, fellow cyclist Ismail (returning home after a day's work as an aircraft technician at Istanbul Airport), demonstrated how it should be done.  Cyclists are required to dominate the road in the same manner that motor vehicles do.  The trouble with that philosophy is how in the event of a 'bump', the cyclist will inevitably come off worse.  And as Ismail reported his cycling helmet had been stolen...

The net result was that instead of arriving in Istanbul at the projected 4 pm, Mark was photographed on the Golden Horn Bridge at 7.30 and made it to Taksin Square (yes, the one that's been in the news in recent months) 30 minutes later.  Bob has since reported that his stint from Luleburgas was marred by the same headwind coming off the Black Sea.  He is now overnighting it in the 'seaside resort' of Buyukcekmece, before his final ride into Istanbul.

Two words describe the landscape covering the 50 miles between Silivri and Istanbul: urban sprawl.  Some fields and farming remain, but for the most part this land is one of light industry and residential development.  Much of the latter consists of guarded communities - although for the most part the pill-boxes contained no security guards.  Moreover, any attempt to enter these new villages to find a coastal route to Istanbul, was met with failure. 

Day 32: Havsa to Silivri/Erdine to Luleburgaz with 2,500 miles now covered

Bob made the sensible decision to spend the morning and early afternoon surveying the mosques and sights of antiquity in the city of Erdine.  Meanwhile, Mark escaped soon after 7am from his no star hotel with the cunning plan of beating the headwind - which to date has always arisen in the late morning.  But not today.  Because after passing the 4,000 Kms/2,500 miles point before 8 o'clock, half an hour later a ferocious and unrelenting headwind came back with a vengeance.  Locals informed him that it was coming directly off the Black Sea - now less than 50 miles to the east.

At least Route 100 is a recently upgraded dual carriageway with a substantial hard shoulder on which to cycle safely.  And there are frequent fuel stations with air conditioned shops selling water and fruit drinks.  However, 10 miles short of the city of Silivri the hard shoulder disappears and Mark found himself fighting with HGV's once again.  Indeed, one such lorry, its horn blaring, forced him off the road - a nightmare last experienced in Chile almost 20 years ago.

With the Muezzin (correction of yesterday's spelling) wailing from the minarets, Mark made it into Silivri - a coastal city on the Sea of Marma (the northern right-hand tip of the Mediterranean) just as the sun was setting.  Bob later texted to say that he too had done battle with the mighty headwind and had called it a day in the city of Luleburgaz - some 60 miles back along Route 100.

One of the great features of today's cycling has been the hundreds of roadside stalls selling fruit and vegetables - primarily watermelons and tomatoes.  Travelling through the city of Corlu, Mark had stumbled across its market - still in full swing in the late afternoon.  More than a dozen different types of melon were on sale, together with every other form of fruit and vegetable imaginable.  He counted ten different types of sultana and once again bought a juicy and enormous peach for the equivalent of 7p

Day 31 Topolovgrad/Jambol in Bulgaria to Havsa/Edirne in Turkey

The boys have at long last reached their final country: Turkey.  Bob continued down the Red Route 7 and entered Turkey en route to Edirne.  Whilst Mark left Topolovgrad and via Svilengrad and Kapitan Andreevo, left Bulgaria at a border crossing where enormous (yet similarly sized) flags of Bulgaria, Turkey and the EU were flying.

Edirne is the first major city in Turkey the traveller from Bulgaria or Greece will pass through and might be described as one of Mosques and Minarets.  Indeed, it is especially beautiful and contains the 'finest mosque in Turkey' - according to Bob.  As Mark cycled out soon after 5pm, the calls to prayer of repeated Mujhuaddin could be heard.

Back in Topolovgrad, Mark had met Archie the pet Macaw.  Now in old age he has lost most of the feathers on his chest - something of a metaphor for the Imperial Hotel whose green coloured swimming pool looked less than inviting than it did last night.  The steak that tasted like 'veal substitute' should have been a clue.  And what's the betting that this place used to be a 'People's Rest and Recuperation Centre' back in the Communist days.  But last night it was a true haven in a country where the past is mouldering away. 

Day 30: Veliko Tarnovo to Topolovgrad & Popovo to Jambol - in Bulgaria

Bob reports that he had a long (93 miles) ride to Jambol, Bulgaria, on good roads and that the mountains were easier than expected.   Whereas Mark's 97 mile route through the Stara Planina was marred by HGV's using the minor road as a short-cut between motorways.  Later in the day he found himself in the back of Bulgarian beyond, cycling on the worst roads anywhere in Europe to date.  The EU's writ does not appear to have reached some parts of Bulgaria's hinterland.

Anyway, by this evening Bob is in Jambol and Mark in Topolovgrad, both close to the border with Turkey - into which final country they will each cross tomorrow.  Discussions have taken place as to the crossing point they will use.  Strangely enough, there are not that many to choose from and one Dutch cyclist travelling in the opposite direction reported that he had entered the northern tip of Greece from Turkey, before cycling into Bulgaria.

On the subject of other cyclists whose paths the boys have crossed, Mark was cycling through the mountains this morning when he was passed by a road bike who said he was a contestant in the London to Istanbul Bike Race.  Quite apart from the fact that road bike tyres are not best suited for this terrain (a 4 kilometre section of cobbled road marks the route south of Nova Zagora), he is the only competitor encountered as yet.

And finally, if you want to send an email of support to Bob and Mark, please do so via aconcagua@virginmedia.com

Day 29: Turno Magurele in Romaia to Veliko Tarnovo/Popovo in Bulgaria

Both the boys are now inside Bulgaria, heading south-east towards the border with Turkey.  Having photographed the Catedrala Sfantul Haralambie in Turno Magurale, Mark diced with death over 3 miles of cobbles to the Dunarea/Dunav and caught the 9am ferry across to Nikopol in Bulgaria. 

The unusual spiral towers at the Catedrala Sfantul Haralambie in Turnu Magurele, Romania

Indeed, after following the course of the river for more than two weeks, it was like saying goodbye to an old, lugubrious friend.  No time on this trip to see the Pelicans and Flamingos in the Danube Delta on the edge of the Black Sea.  Perhaps in the future?

A final goodbye to the Danube

Click here to listen to The wonderful 'Blue Danube' by Johann Strauss

Thereafter it was the now usual arduous slog along poorly maintained country roads in intense heat and humidity - especially by mid-afternoon.  Thankfully, the roadside rubbish of Serbia and to a lesser extent Romania, was now absent.  And the flag of the European Union, festooned at every town and village you entered in Romania, was in Bulgaria largely absent.

Roadside memorial to a Bulgarian Airforce Pilot

One interesting experience.  Mark tried to change his Hungarian Forints, Croatian Kuna and Serbian Dinara at a Bulgarian bank in the town of Levski.  They weren't interested.  Sterling and Euros yes: anything else, certainly not!

Echinops/Globe Thistle growing wild in Bulgaria

Day 28: From Calafat to Turnu Magurele in Romania and Corabia to Svistov in Bulgaria

At long last the temperatures have cooled.  It has even been raining this morning!  Bob caught the ferry from Corabia in Romania and is now overnighting it in the Bulgarian city of Svistov.  Whilst Mark undertook a 108 mile stint eastwards from Calafat and is staying in the town of Turnu Magurele.  By tomorrow morning both will be in Bulgaria - country no. 11 for Mark, 9 for Bob.

Cycling along this southern edge of Romania, the overwhelming sense is of an agrarian landscape that has changed little in centuries.  Linseed and Maize (corn-on-the-cob) are supreme, but hundreds of roadside stalls selling watermelons and tomatoes are indicative of the agricultural heritage of this region.  As are the horse-drawn carts that are constantly in view.  Here it is the norm to wave at everyone and shout "Hello!"  Indeed, if you don't respond accordingly, the natives get upset.  And on the sad side, too many children (and on occasion adults) have been tutored to ask for cash as a default response.

Bringing in the Hay

The Danube has rarely been in sight today - or indeed since leaving Austria.  The guidebooks claim this to be a 'Danube Bike Ride' but in reality, once 20 miles east of Bratislava in Slovakia, the route simply follows ordinary roads.  Some of these are extremely dangerous, with jugernauts and massive lorries of every European nationality sharing the route.  A bit naughty that and in Romania, even the Bike Ride signs have disappeared. 

And the road goes straight for 20 miles

Day 27:  TO CALAFAT & CORABIA IN ROMANIA

Despite the ongoing problems with the heat and 8 days of Danube headwind, both boys made sound progress of some 80 miles+ eastwards along Romania's southern border.  As a result, Bob has now reached Corabia and Mark is in Calafat - both cities on the northern bank of the Danube.  To the south lies Bulgaria and the final country they will need to pass through before entering Turkey and journey's end at Istanbul.

Another immensely tiring day, made worse by the absence of signage and guidebooks that leave a lot to be desired.  What began as a mere suspicion has now been confirmed: the people who write these guidebooks have never actually cycled them.  Grossly inaccurate information: wrong distances; and long steep hills that do not get a mention, are reminiscent of the cycling quangos back in the UK who devise routes with the unexpected result of putting people off cycling.  And when the suggested route is infested with heavy goods traffic, a lifetime fear of cycling can be easily envisaged.

Horse on the limitless Romanian plains

Romanian Gnomes for sale in Calafat

Soon, the boys will have to leave the Danube and cycle across Bulgaria towards Turkey.  The Mistral-like headwind may accelerate that decision.  But for now, Bob and Mark continue to ride eastward and aim to make Istanbul by the end of next week.  

Day 26: 2,000 MILES PASSED WITH BOB IN CALAFAT AND MARK IN DROBETA-TURNU SEVERIN

Big news event of the day is that both Bob and Mark have now cycled more than 2,000 miles each.  However, whilst Mark called it a day late afternoon in the Romanian town of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, Bob has pushed on to Calafat - where on the opposite side of the Danube lies Bulgaria, their penultimate country before Turkey.

Romanian Gnomes for sale in Calafat

As you can gather, Mark survived his night at the B&B and wasn't fed to the family pig!  Shame on him for fearing the worst.  Nevertheless, his ten past seven departure marked the earliest of the tour as yet for himself.  After cycling through more than a dozen road tunnels, time for a 9am coffee in the bustling market town of Donji Milanovac, before heading north-west through the Danube Gorge.  Here, the cliffs rise to almost 600 metres and at one point the Danube is only 150 metres wide and 82 metres deep - the deepest of any river in the world.  

Danube Gorge at its narrowest

And as the road continues to rise, across the Danube in Romania can be seen the rock carving of Decabulus Rex - King of Dacia in the first century AD.

Rock carving of Decabulus Rex 

Apart from the roadside rubbish (more so than in any other country witnessed), the biggest issue for cyclists in Serbia is the standard of driving - especially by White Van Men.  This might be laughable, except for the number of roadside shrines.  Almost all of these relate to young men who died in their 20's and are most often located at hazardous points along the road.  Their photos are often included and in one instance, against the backdrop of his sports car - almost certainly the instrument of his death.  It's all extremely sad and tragic. 

Day 25: Smederevo to Dobra in Serbia/ andBerzasca in Romania

The boys' separate routes are now converging - albeit on opposite sides of the Danube.  And by Thursday evening Bob was staying B&B in the Romanian village of Berzasca.  Whilst Mark was discovering the delights of a Bates Motel establishment in the small hamlet of Dobra, Serbia on the other side of the river.

Serbian art of the Soviet style

 

His route had taken him from the metropolitan sophistication of Smederevo, via an open-cast coal-mining environment more in tune with the movie Bladerunner.  Pipes and conveyor belts criss-crossed the landscape to bring coal to the power station that digested these massive amounts of fuel.  The main road had been diverted and its replacement was the most rutted so far encountered.  All this to get to the Ottoman Fortress at the town of Ram, where across the Danube, Romania could now be seen.

Boats on the Danube outside Belgrade

Thankfully, the landscape then quickly changed and heralded the real Danube Gorge as the river enters the Serbian Carpathian Mountains.  At Golubac Castle the road actually passes through the former portcullis and thereafter the river begins to narrow.

Golubac Castle at the entrance to the Danube Gorge

Both Bob and Mark have encountered some fantastic accommodation during their 25 days on the road.  In particular, the 502 Club Hotel in Kalocsa, Hungary.  And Jurini Dvori's B&B in Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia.  However, tonight's offering provided good food but no water to wash or shower.  And having been introduced to the family's pet pig (a sow Mark was informed would be butchered in December) he became convinced that he was said pig's next meal.  Obviously, the animal did not like freshly washed food!!!

Serbian Hayricks 

Day 24: Novi Sad to Smederevo, Serbia; and Timisoara to Oravita, Romania

The Boys routes are beginning to merge as Bob tracks south through Romania and Mark east in Serbia.  However, the heat has become unbearable and in one bar mid-afternoon the locals showed Mark a thermometer reading 46 degrees C.  They told him it was too hot to cycle and kept buying his beer.  Eventually and having given away six JOGLE badges, Mark was able to escape.

Much of today's cycling in Serbia has been amongst fields laden with fruit trees.  And the purchase of some delicious pears from a stall outside a family home, testified to the quality of the fruit being sold.  None of those tiny specimens in which the supermarkets of the UK now excel in foisting on the British public.  Nevertheless, across Europe personal witness now testifies how one crop alone has accounted for 80 per cent of that being grown: Linseed.  Sunflowers come a poor second but there is of course a connection: vegetable oil.  Shame then that cycling past any field growing Linseed invariably involves great plagues of flying aphids.

Delicious peaches for sale in Croatia

Tomorrow Bob and Marge will both converge on the Danube, albeit it at separate points.  And with 3,000 kilometres each now covered, the final destination of Istanbul is all but within sight.  As a provisional date, sometime towards the end of next week is looking better than optimistic.  

Day 23: Knezevi Vinogradi in Croatia to Novi Sad, Serbia/Timisoara, Romania

The boys are still making their separate ways to Istanbul.  Bob has now left Hungary and reached Timisoara, Romania.  Whilst Mark has journeyed through Croatia via Vukovar (with its battle-scarred water tower) and crossed the Danube into Serbia.  Twenty-five miles later he is 'holed-up' in Novi Sad.

The battle scarred water tower memorial to the civil war in Vukovar, Croatia

Interestingly, nationalism was much on display in Croatia, with the flag flying from many houses and all public buildings: parallels with Northern Ireland?  Plenty of evidence of EU funding of projects in Croatia too.  Whereas is Serbia, EU membership still awaits.  Most importantly, the peoples of both countries are extremely courteous and friendly - unlike some further west.

Svetlana and Jurini Dvori at their brilliant B&B in Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia

Smells have been a feature of this 'expedition' to date.  In England and Belgium, the scent of Privat blossom was often over-powering.  But after leaving the Ardennes in Belgium, cow manure was the order of the day.  As it was being spread on the fields at the height of summer, small wonder flies were breeding by the billion.  Thankfully, that ceased once we passed into Slovakia and ever since more 'delicate' odours have been discernible: hay being harvested; the torporous scent of the river; and in Novi Sad this evening, cold tea.  All very heart-warming for this most under-rated of the senses.

Irrigation device in Vardarac, Croatia 

Day 22: Kalocsa in Hungary to Croatia and/or near the Romanian border

Another day when temperatures hit the low 40's by mid-afternoon.  In practical terms, this means cycling in short bursts and taking on board at least a litre of fluids every hour.  Even then, the sweat pours off you - much to the attraction of every flying insect known to man.

With the best IT connection of the trip so far, Mark said goodbye to Olivia and Andreas (the manager) at the splendid 502 Club Hotel in Kalocsa, and headed off across the Paprika fields.  Through the Nemzeti and Beda Karapansca national parks he spotted a pair of Buzzards and plenty of the usual suspects: Swifts, Swallows and Collared Doves.  In Baja Mark bought delicious green grapes from a roadside stall, and a 'Radler' in Baja.

Mark, Olivia and Andreas (the Manager) at the 502 Club Hotel

 

Like many parts of Eastern Europe, there used to be large German communities (Swabians) residing in these areas.  Many were forced to leave after the Second World War, but those that remained can often by identified by the triple-language road signs (Hungarian, German and Serbo-Croat) as in Vaskut/Waschkut/Baskut.  Meanwhile, Bob was heading further into Hungary and getting ever closer to the border with Romania.

 

Paprika Manufacturing

 

Mark's route took him through Mohacs - the scene in 1526 of the battle in which King Louis II of Hungary was defeated by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.  As the King had no children, his title passed to the Austrian Royal Family, the Habsburgs, who subsequently defeated the Turks in the Second Battle of Mohacs in 1687 - and thus the Austro-Hungarian Empire was born.

Lady selling Watermelons, Grapes and Nectarines

 

The temperature at 12.55 pm: itgot much hotter!

Late in the day, Mark crossed the border into Croatia (the first time he had to show his passport since leaving Dover almost three weeks ago) and after cycling a further 25 miles, landed in the wine-producing town of Knezevi Vinogradi.  No riding off the beaten track in these parts though: the Danube (now the Dunav) marks the border with Serbia and signs warn of unexploded land mines!!!

Day 21: Budapest to Kalocsa - world capital of the Paprika trade

It must be hot.  The tarmac is melting and this afternoon, one temperature guage was seen to register 41 degrees centigrade!  Bob cycled 90 miles from Lake Balaton to Kecel.  Whilst Mark repeated the difficulty in escaping from Vienna and only scored 89 miles.  Both are amazing distances in view of the heat - with copious litres of water consumed during the day.

Mark's final destination was the town of Kalocsa - capital of the world trade in Paprika, together with the surrounding 32 villages.  Well known as the main ingredient in the likes of Hungarian Goulash, turns out this spice is derived from Chilli Peppers which were in turn brought from South America.  Consequently, whilst it was grown along the Danube in Turkish times, only in the 18th century was it adopted as a staple part of Hungarian cuisine.

Talking about the Danube, in Germany and Austria the river was never better than green in colour (reflecting the surrounding trees).  In the Austrian capital it is invariably grey or brown.  But once across the border into Slovakia and now Hungary, it is genuinely blue.  Therefore Johann Strauss the younger got it right when he named his most famous waltz, 'The Blue Danube'.

One final point of note for today, Bob was a silth-like 60-something when he started this excursion.  Whereas, Mark was on the lardy side.  Not anymore.  To date he has lost 16 lbs.  Anyone else fancy the crash-course marathon bike ride diet?  Tomorrow, into Croatia.

No Farm Vehicles, Horse-drawn Vehicles or Bicycles!

Water-melons by the kilo

 

 

Parliament Building in Budapest

Day 20: Komaron in Hungary to the capital Budapest - and Lake Balaton

The boys have now covered more than 1500 miles and are consequently more than 60 per cent of the way through their quest.  Bob has headed south and this evening is camping on the shores of Lake Balaton - Hungary's largest lake.  Whilst Mark has continued to follow the Danube and has reached the national capital, Budapest.

That heat-wave that affected the UK a few days back has now reached central Europe.  In practical terms, any breeze blowing across a black tarmac surface magnifies the heat so that on occasion this afternoon, temperatures above 40 degrees centigrade were being experienced.  And to add salt to the wound, said road surface is becoming increasingly pot-holed as we move further east. 

Mark's route took him via Estergom which with its domed Basilica is known as 'Hungary's Rome'.  Hungary's first king, Stephen, was crowned here in the year 1,000.  But in 1249 the Mongol invasion arrived; the Tartars in the Thirteenth Century; and the Turks were only evicted in 1683.Thereafter, some great cycling along the 'Danube Bend' before (unfortunately) having to follow the main road for much of the way into Budapest - 80 miles in total today.  Approaching the capital, thousands of Hungarians were bathing in the river or adjacent swimming pool complexes, before heading home as the light began to fade.

The Basilica in Estergom - 'Hungary's Rome'

Incidentally, only we Brits and other English language speakers refer to the river as the Danube.  In Germany and Austria it is called the Donau; in Slovakia and the Czech Republic as the Dunaj; and in Hungary the Duna.  Apparently, such differences date back to mediaeval times and trade between the European countries. 

Day 19: Bratislava in Slovakia to Komaron in Hungary

After the delights of Bratislava, time to post back home the maps so far used and no longer required before hitting the trail once again.  For both Bob and Mark it turned into a slog of a day, fighting a head-wind from the east that easily costs 30% in terms of performance.  To make matters worse, the heat-wave has returned and this afternoon temperatures approached 40 degrees C.  And it's been warm back in Blighty you say?

At one point today the Danube was more than a mile wide, but this is due to the construction 20 years ago of the Gabcikovo-Nagymaros dams and hydro-electric project.  Up on the dykes that protect the surrounding lower level land from the river, the head-wind was consequently at its fiercest.

More wildlife observed today: Swans, Storks (which are amazingly large close up), sea-birds somewhat incongruously (including Herring Gulls) and millions of Grasshoppers.  But we don't count the Hydrofoil passenger ships connecting the major cities along the Danube.

Hydrofoil on the Blue Danube

Between Gabcikovo and Klizska Nema in Slovakia the cheapest (and good tasting) beer of the trip to date was discovered: 70 cents, 55p a pint.  But these are poor farming communities which may in itself explain why signposting was poor and many of the few signs vandalized.  Moreover, those of a certain age and who had experienced the Communist yoke, offered no greeting or response to any given.  Are they denizens of a time when seeing and saying nothing was the best survival strategy.  And remember, it's only 24 years since the 'Velvet Revolution' took place in the former Czechoslovakia.  

Klosterneuburg in Austria via Vienna and a 4 mile nudist beach to Bratislava in Slovakia

Temperatures were back in the mid-30's today and both Bob and Mark took time out to visit the giant Ferris Wheel in the Prater district of Vienna.  Indeed, it is known as the Wiener Riesenrad and was designed by the British engineer Walter B. Bassett.  He designed others: in London, Blackpool, Paris and Chicago, but they have not survived.  And those of a certain age will know the Viennese Ferris Wheel as a key feature in the movie, 'The Third Man'.  No sign of Orson Welles today or of a zither player and THAT tune.  Altogether now: dum-de-dum-de-dum, de dum, etc.

Vienna Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel)

Greater shocks lay in wait for the boys as they each attempted to exit the city independently.  The route took them down a Danube-side 4 mile long nudist colony!  Never have so many potential beached whales in various shades of lobster bisque and lizard like folds of flesh been on public view.  We're talking over a thousand  such individuals (men and women) with hardly a soul under the age of 60 - although Bob disagrees on the figure.  The only person missing from the scene was Captain Ahab sporting a rictus grin and a harpoon gun!

On the subject of nature red in tooth and claw, so far there hasn't been a great change in the type of birds and animals you expect to see back in the UK.  Admittedly, there was that dead Beaver of a few days back and the occasional Buzzard or other bird of prey has been spotted.  Oh, and some dark brown Squirrels and plenty of noisy Canada Geese.  No change there then. 

Having escaped that nightmare of the nudist colony, Bob and Mark cycled on to the border with Slovakia (country number 6) and the city of Bratislava.  This is a real 'happening' place buzzing with history and tourists.  Plus, with beer at around £1.40 a pint, it's easy to understand why Bratislava is the new stag and hen capital of Europe.  And very civilised with it, if this Thursday evening was a fitting example. 

The Novy Most Bridge and viewing platform in Bratislava

Helpful Bike Shop and machine dispensing six types of innertube out of hours

Mark beside the statue of Johann Strauss the Younger in Vienna

Day 17: Mittelkirchen to Klosterneuburg near Vienna and crashing through 2,000 Kms

Thank heavens for another coolish day (no temperatures above 30 degrees C.) and one where the boys met up for a 'Radler' (lager shandy) in Klein Pochlarn - on the north side of the Danube.  Indeed, they later cycled from near Traismauer to Muckendorf (these are not made up names, honest!) before Bob called it a day and Mark continued on to the edge of the Vienna Woods - all very Johan Strauss-like.

With the 2,000 kilometres barrier exceeded today (in reality more than 2,100 kilometres or 1,312 miles in real money) to date, only 3 Lions International signs have been seen (1 in England and 2 on the French/German border) plus one for the Rotarians.  Compare this to the USA when as Mark discovered 32 years ago, between California and New York every town (however small) bore signs for each charity institution operating in that location - including Lions International, Rotary, Moose, Buffalos and even the Freemasons.  As a recent rejoiner of Shirley Lions Club, why do local charitable institutions in Europe hide the lights under the proverbial bushel, so to speak?  Small wonder ordinary people repeatedly ask who these charities are and what they are about.

Tomorrow, Thursday, Mark will pass through Vienna and hopes to reach Bratislava in Slovakia and beyond, following the Danube all the way.  Whereas, Bob intends to spend some time in Vienna before heading off through Slovakia and across Hungary.  The boys aim to meet again somewhere along the Danube or perhaps in Istanbul!  More reports to follow, of course.

Oil Tanker enters the Danube locks above Vienna

Day 16: Windorf in Germany to Mittelkirchen in Austria via Passaul and Linz

A heavy storm beat down all night but like good rain should, by dawn it had stopped and the roads dried out quickly.  Mark crossed the border from Germany into Austria at Passau, a city with a historic heart and one where the River Inn (as in Innsbruck) flows into the Danube.  This is also a city where the Viking River Cruise boats stop and disgorge their passengers.  Not that there was any indication that a border exists.  No German or Austrian flags, no border crossing.  Even the road signs did not change.  Something to do with history you suppose?

Meanwhile, Bob has cycled a marathon 119 miles today and joined the Danube at Linz.  He has arrived in Grein this evening - approximately 20 Kms ahead of Mark and the boys have agreed to meet for lunch tomorrow.

One of the saddest aspects of this trip has been the increasing lack of response between fellow cyclists.  In the UK the mutual hostility between road bikers ('speed snakes') and mountain/hybrid bikers is well known.  But in Germany and now Austria all cyclists appear to ignore each other.  Rarely do you receive a response to "Hello" or "Guten Morgan/Tag".  They stare at you and just occasionally a nod will be given.  Yet even fellow touring cyclists weighed down with panniers ignore each other when they pass.

On a far happier note, after the extortionate price of beer in Belgium and especially France (£8 for a large beer!) once in Germany a largish beer (400ml) came down to under 3 Euros and in Austria the going rate appears to be 3.2 Euros for a half litre.  That's well under £3 - better than most pubs back home!  

Day 15: a 100 mile stroll in Bavaria from Kelheim to Windorf near Passau

At long last the heat-wave has broken and produced far more comfortable temperatures in which to cycle.  Even the odd spot of rain has fallen.  Bob reports that he is now near Salzburg, Austria.  Whilst Mark will leave Germany and cross into Austria first thing in the morning.

A day for making fast, relaxing progress along the Danube in its most languid of conditions.  Each town produced new variants on the clock tower come fairy tale castle scene.  Regensburg could easily double for Cologne.  But the favourite was in the city of Staubing where at 3 pm the most complicated of ring tones ever heard played the whole of one aria from Mozart's 'The Magic Flute'.

The historical centre of Regensburg

A mild climate: Angels Trumprts/Datura/Brrugmansia

Clock Tower in Straubing playing Mozart's 'Magic Flute' on the hour

With 1,800 Kilometres (1,125 miles) now under the belt in theory half the distance to Istanbul has now been covered.  However, as previously described, Mark's route will add at least 200 more miles - and consequently several more days cycling. 

Day 14: Hochstadt in Baden Wurtemburg to Kelheim in Bavaria

Bob is now close to the Austrian border, whereas Mark still has over 100 miles to go, having cycled a mere 83 miles today.  It may have something to do with the heat.  Temperatures have once again exceeded 38 degrees - causing sunburn to Mark's back despite wearing a white cycling top.  And Bob reports how slightly further south, it may have reached  46 degrees centigrade!

Interesting countryside hereabouts.  The Rhineland/Saxon architecture has now given way to predominantly modern designs - with the exception of farm buildings and churches.  Most villages in Bavaria also have a massively tall Maypole painted blue and white - similar to the red and white variant in Welford-on-Avon, Warwickshire.  Except, the Bavarian ones are adorned with local coats of arms or pictorial representations of the occupations of those who reside in the village: farmer, butcher, painter, etc.

Maypole in Bavaria

The heat requires frequent stops for refreshment - water and nothing stronger than a Radler (that's a Shandy in English).  But very small meals too: wurst and bread being a favourite (OK, a sausage sarnie).  And with the Danube now the width of a football pitch, it was still surprising to see a dead Beaver by the side of the road.  And sadly, dozens of Hedgehogs.

Roadside shrine in Baden Wurtemberg

After a massive climb uphill (this Danube cycleway isn't always easy sailing, especially with the insects biting), a downhill 40mph spree into mediaeval Kelheim where it seems the river cruisers and industrial barges are prevented from going any further upstream along the Danube. 

Route-finding in Bavaria is difficult:  the bottom right icon denotes the Donau-Radweg

Day 13: Sigmaringendorf in the Black Forest to Hochstadt in Baden Wurtemberg

Another very hot day with temperatures topping 38 degrees centigrade this afternoon.  However, the big story is that Bob and Mark are now travelling separate routes.

Cliff-side church as the river winds through the limestone gorge

Bob favours cycling due east by road on the logical basis that this is more direct and will consequently take less time.  Whereas, after Thursday's dangerous ride into the Black Forest, when the boys were fighting with multi-axled lorries and their horns, Mark is taking the far safer and easier Donau-Radweg - the bike route that follows the Danube.  This will inevitably add 200+ miles to the route, but he believes it is worth it on grounds of safety and observing the landscape in detail.  And thus there was an amicable parting at Herbertingen.

Mark's 184 Km (102.5 miles) bike ride took him out of the Black Forest and into Baden Wurtemberg,  The Danube is now sufficiently wide for dams, hydro-electric power-plants and a great many holiday camps.  There were literally hundreds of Germans swimming or kayaking down the river - and in the heat who could blame them.  But the bike route is also graced by trees that provide plenty of cover from the sun.  Mark finally called it a day in the town of Hochstadt and Bob reports he is close to Munich.  Sound progress by both individuals.

Day 12: Loffingen to the Source of the Danube and its first 100 Kilometres

This bike ride has travelled along three main river valleys: the Thames, Rhine and now the Danube.  Indeed, despite being less than half way along the overall route, the Danube will take the boys almost to journey's end - such is its length.  And  as befits such a historic location, at Donau Eschingen its supposed source was surrounded by building works!  A kilometre away and all but beneath a motorway flyover, the confluence of the two rivers, Brigach and Breg indicates what many regard as the official start of the Danube.  Although, the information panels describe (in German and English) that its near 3,000 Kilometre length is measured upstream from the Danube Delta on the Black Sea in Romania.

Bob and Mark at the 'confluence' (official start) of the River Danube

Bob and Mark left their Fawlty Towerseque hotel (no breakfast or staff before 8.30 am!) and cycled to Donau Eschingen, despite misdirected cycle route signs and roadworks.  At the Tourist Office they discovered a fantastic plasticated, concertina map for the Donau-Radweg (cycle route) covering the first 600 Kms as far as Passau on the Austrian border.  And having toured the sites of Donau Eschingen and sampled a small beer, they set off along the Radweg.

At first, the Danube was little more than a stream.  But as it progressed so did its width if not its vigour.  Indeed, in places it was a still as a millpond.  Within 25 miles the river enters a limestone gorge and the cycleway if forced uphill and down.  Cotswold stone like in colour, abandoned castles and occupied churches and houses can be seen on the cliff-side edge.  And in the valley Boy Scout camp tents had been erected.  Then the Danube emerges into calmer territory and at Sigmaringendorf, journey's end for the day, the charming Hotel Rogenboden and its angel of a proprietor, Ingrid.  Angel?  She washed the boys' disgustingly dirty clothes and hung them out to dry!!!

Day 11: Eguisheim in France crossing the Rhine to Freiburg in Germany and the Black Forest

Having cycled more than 1,200 Kms (750 miles) Bob and Mark are more than a third of the way on their quest to cycle from the West Midlands Marie Curie Hospice in Solihull to Istanbul and the edge of Europe.  However, as today's events unfolded there was plenty of evidence of the dangers to come.

Another sun-soaked morning in beautiful Eguisheim, Storks to be seen nesting on top of the Church tower and the tallest roofs. 

A stork in its nest (not on Mark's shoulder!)

Mark standing in the centre of Eguisheim, Alsace, France

A late start saw the boys head for Colmar and 15 miles later, cross the Rhine into Germany.  The city of Freiburg combines mediaeval architecture with modern eco-conservancy.  But it was the old city centre irrigation channels (Bachle) that caught the eye.  Young and old were paddling in these and playing with toy boats.  Only Ollantaytambo on the trail to Machu Picchu in Peru appears to have anything similar.

Unfortunately, late afternoon was spent dodging heavy traffic on the B31 as Bob and Mark wound their way into the heart of the Black Forest.  The cycle routes had disappeared and it was a hair-raising experience for much of the time.  Eventually the village of Loffingen was found and with it the Hexenschopf Hotel - from where this entry is being made.

Day 10: Saverne to Eguisheim in Alsace down the 'Routes des Vins'

The weather has finally broken, with rain first thing this morning and a heavy shower during the late afternoon.  And on the positive side, for the first time since this 'tour' began temperatures have not breached 30 degrees.

Yesterday the boys passed a war cemetery at Cutting, testimony to the Lorraine Offensive by the French Army in the August of 1914 and in which even the commanding officer was killed.  And this morning heading south from Saverne, a roadside memorial with both French and British flags flying honoured the deaths of two French soldiers and two Royal Air Force crew members - all of whom had died during the Second World War.

Cemetery at Cutting of those French Soldiers who fought in the Lorraine Offensive, August,1918

Memorial to 2 French Soldiers and 2 Royal Air Force Crew Members who died in 1944 during the Second World War

After such sadness, the start of the Alsace 'Routes des Vins' came as a welcome redress.  Highly picturesque territory between the Vosges mountains in the west and the Rhine to the east, the hillsides are emblazoned with vineyards specialising in wines like Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gawurtztraminer.  Plenty of 'degustation' tasting houses too, but as Bob and Mark are in no position to buy and carry bottles of wine, they were given a wide berth.

Sign for the 'Route des Vins' in Alsace

Finally, that most beautiful of 'Routes des Vins' villages, Eguisheim, came into view as the boys cycled the back route through the vinyards.  Seen at its best in the mid-evening sunlight, it was the perfect journey's end to an unexpectedly hard day's cycling.

Day 9: Metz in Lorraine to Saverne in Alsace via a parched landscape

No respite from the sun's rays for most of today as the boys headed south-east in the Department Moselle.  Throughout this journey to date evidence of the economic downturn has been ever present, with closed shops in every city and town passed through.  However, what has also been witnessed is the number of agricultural vehicles on the roads, as farmers across western Europe take advantage of the current heat-wave to bring in the harvest.

From the city of Metz, Bob and Mark passed through a litany of small villages along the D999, stopping for a breather in Morhange before continuing on the D27 and D38 to Fenetrange - sunflowers beginning to ripen in many of the fields along the route.  Once on the outskirts of Phalsbourg the change in architecture was discernible, with the chocolate box styles of the Rhineland becoming dominant.

With a repeat of last night's performance, a storm was now brewing and dust-clouds erupting.  In a final 6 mile dash the boys raced to Saverne, passing into Alsace and enjoying the four mile descent from the Col de Saverne.  They only just made it before the heavens opened once again.