Saturday 27 July 2013

Day 12: Loffingen to the Source of the Danube and its first 100 Kilometres

This bike ride has travelled along three main river valleys: the Thames, Rhine and now the Danube.  Indeed, despite being less than half way along the overall route, the Danube will take the boys almost to journey's end - such is its length.  And  as befits such a historic location, at Donau Eschingen its supposed source was surrounded by building works!  A kilometre away and all but beneath a motorway flyover, the confluence of the two rivers, Brigach and Breg indicates what many regard as the official start of the Danube.  Although, the information panels describe (in German and English) that its near 3,000 Kilometre length is measured upstream from the Danube Delta on the Black Sea in Romania.


Bob and Mark at the 'confluence' (official start) of the River Danube


Bob and Mark left their Fawlty Towerseque hotel (no breakfast or staff before 8.30 am!) and cycled to Donau Eschingen, despite misdirected cycle route signs and roadworks.  At the Tourist Office they discovered a fantastic plasticated, concertina map for the Donau-Radweg (cycle route) covering the first 600 Kms as far as Passau on the Austrian border.  And having toured the sites of Donau Eschingen and sampled a small beer, they set off along the Radweg.

At first, the Danube was little more than a stream.  But as it progressed so did its width if not its vigour.  Indeed, in places it was a still as a millpond.  Within 25 miles the river enters a limestone gorge and the cycleway if forced uphill and down.  Cotswold stone like in colour, abandoned castles and occupied churches and houses can be seen on the cliff-side edge.  And in the valley Boy Scout camp tents had been erected.  Then the Danube emerges into calmer territory and at Sigmaringendorf, journey's end for the day, the charming Hotel Rogenboden and its angel of a proprietor, Ingrid.  Angel?  She washed the boys' disgustingly dirty clothes and hung them out to dry!!!

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