Day 17: Mittelkirchen to Klosterneuburg near Vienna and crashing through 2,000 Kms

Thank heavens for another coolish day (no temperatures above 30 degrees C.) and one where the boys met up for a 'Radler' (lager shandy) in Klein Pochlarn - on the north side of the Danube.  Indeed, they later cycled from near Traismauer to Muckendorf (these are not made up names, honest!) before Bob called it a day and Mark continued on to the edge of the Vienna Woods - all very Johan Strauss-like.

With the 2,000 kilometres barrier exceeded today (in reality more than 2,100 kilometres or 1,312 miles in real money) to date, only 3 Lions International signs have been seen (1 in England and 2 on the French/German border) plus one for the Rotarians.  Compare this to the USA when as Mark discovered 32 years ago, between California and New York every town (however small) bore signs for each charity institution operating in that location - including Lions International, Rotary, Moose, Buffalos and even the Freemasons.  As a recent rejoiner of Shirley Lions Club, why do local charitable institutions in Europe hide the lights under the proverbial bushel, so to speak?  Small wonder ordinary people repeatedly ask who these charities are and what they are about.

Tomorrow, Thursday, Mark will pass through Vienna and hopes to reach Bratislava in Slovakia and beyond, following the Danube all the way.  Whereas, Bob intends to spend some time in Vienna before heading off through Slovakia and across Hungary.  The boys aim to meet again somewhere along the Danube or perhaps in Istanbul!  More reports to follow, of course.

Oil Tanker enters the Danube locks above Vienna

Day 16: Windorf in Germany to Mittelkirchen in Austria via Passaul and Linz

A heavy storm beat down all night but like good rain should, by dawn it had stopped and the roads dried out quickly.  Mark crossed the border from Germany into Austria at Passau, a city with a historic heart and one where the River Inn (as in Innsbruck) flows into the Danube.  This is also a city where the Viking River Cruise boats stop and disgorge their passengers.  Not that there was any indication that a border exists.  No German or Austrian flags, no border crossing.  Even the road signs did not change.  Something to do with history you suppose?

Meanwhile, Bob has cycled a marathon 119 miles today and joined the Danube at Linz.  He has arrived in Grein this evening - approximately 20 Kms ahead of Mark and the boys have agreed to meet for lunch tomorrow.

One of the saddest aspects of this trip has been the increasing lack of response between fellow cyclists.  In the UK the mutual hostility between road bikers ('speed snakes') and mountain/hybrid bikers is well known.  But in Germany and now Austria all cyclists appear to ignore each other.  Rarely do you receive a response to "Hello" or "Guten Morgan/Tag".  They stare at you and just occasionally a nod will be given.  Yet even fellow touring cyclists weighed down with panniers ignore each other when they pass.

On a far happier note, after the extortionate price of beer in Belgium and especially France (£8 for a large beer!) once in Germany a largish beer (400ml) came down to under 3 Euros and in Austria the going rate appears to be 3.2 Euros for a half litre.  That's well under £3 - better than most pubs back home!  

Day 15: a 100 mile stroll in Bavaria from Kelheim to Windorf near Passau

At long last the heat-wave has broken and produced far more comfortable temperatures in which to cycle.  Even the odd spot of rain has fallen.  Bob reports that he is now near Salzburg, Austria.  Whilst Mark will leave Germany and cross into Austria first thing in the morning.

A day for making fast, relaxing progress along the Danube in its most languid of conditions.  Each town produced new variants on the clock tower come fairy tale castle scene.  Regensburg could easily double for Cologne.  But the favourite was in the city of Staubing where at 3 pm the most complicated of ring tones ever heard played the whole of one aria from Mozart's 'The Magic Flute'.

The historical centre of Regensburg

A mild climate: Angels Trumprts/Datura/Brrugmansia

Clock Tower in Straubing playing Mozart's 'Magic Flute' on the hour

With 1,800 Kilometres (1,125 miles) now under the belt in theory half the distance to Istanbul has now been covered.  However, as previously described, Mark's route will add at least 200 more miles - and consequently several more days cycling. 

Day 14: Hochstadt in Baden Wurtemburg to Kelheim in Bavaria

Bob is now close to the Austrian border, whereas Mark still has over 100 miles to go, having cycled a mere 83 miles today.  It may have something to do with the heat.  Temperatures have once again exceeded 38 degrees - causing sunburn to Mark's back despite wearing a white cycling top.  And Bob reports how slightly further south, it may have reached  46 degrees centigrade!

Interesting countryside hereabouts.  The Rhineland/Saxon architecture has now given way to predominantly modern designs - with the exception of farm buildings and churches.  Most villages in Bavaria also have a massively tall Maypole painted blue and white - similar to the red and white variant in Welford-on-Avon, Warwickshire.  Except, the Bavarian ones are adorned with local coats of arms or pictorial representations of the occupations of those who reside in the village: farmer, butcher, painter, etc.

Maypole in Bavaria

The heat requires frequent stops for refreshment - water and nothing stronger than a Radler (that's a Shandy in English).  But very small meals too: wurst and bread being a favourite (OK, a sausage sarnie).  And with the Danube now the width of a football pitch, it was still surprising to see a dead Beaver by the side of the road.  And sadly, dozens of Hedgehogs.

Roadside shrine in Baden Wurtemberg

After a massive climb uphill (this Danube cycleway isn't always easy sailing, especially with the insects biting), a downhill 40mph spree into mediaeval Kelheim where it seems the river cruisers and industrial barges are prevented from going any further upstream along the Danube. 

Route-finding in Bavaria is difficult:  the bottom right icon denotes the Donau-Radweg

Day 13: Sigmaringendorf in the Black Forest to Hochstadt in Baden Wurtemberg

Another very hot day with temperatures topping 38 degrees centigrade this afternoon.  However, the big story is that Bob and Mark are now travelling separate routes.

Cliff-side church as the river winds through the limestone gorge

Bob favours cycling due east by road on the logical basis that this is more direct and will consequently take less time.  Whereas, after Thursday's dangerous ride into the Black Forest, when the boys were fighting with multi-axled lorries and their horns, Mark is taking the far safer and easier Donau-Radweg - the bike route that follows the Danube.  This will inevitably add 200+ miles to the route, but he believes it is worth it on grounds of safety and observing the landscape in detail.  And thus there was an amicable parting at Herbertingen.

Mark's 184 Km (102.5 miles) bike ride took him out of the Black Forest and into Baden Wurtemberg,  The Danube is now sufficiently wide for dams, hydro-electric power-plants and a great many holiday camps.  There were literally hundreds of Germans swimming or kayaking down the river - and in the heat who could blame them.  But the bike route is also graced by trees that provide plenty of cover from the sun.  Mark finally called it a day in the town of Hochstadt and Bob reports he is close to Munich.  Sound progress by both individuals.

Day 12: Loffingen to the Source of the Danube and its first 100 Kilometres

This bike ride has travelled along three main river valleys: the Thames, Rhine and now the Danube.  Indeed, despite being less than half way along the overall route, the Danube will take the boys almost to journey's end - such is its length.  And  as befits such a historic location, at Donau Eschingen its supposed source was surrounded by building works!  A kilometre away and all but beneath a motorway flyover, the confluence of the two rivers, Brigach and Breg indicates what many regard as the official start of the Danube.  Although, the information panels describe (in German and English) that its near 3,000 Kilometre length is measured upstream from the Danube Delta on the Black Sea in Romania.

Bob and Mark at the 'confluence' (official start) of the River Danube

Bob and Mark left their Fawlty Towerseque hotel (no breakfast or staff before 8.30 am!) and cycled to Donau Eschingen, despite misdirected cycle route signs and roadworks.  At the Tourist Office they discovered a fantastic plasticated, concertina map for the Donau-Radweg (cycle route) covering the first 600 Kms as far as Passau on the Austrian border.  And having toured the sites of Donau Eschingen and sampled a small beer, they set off along the Radweg.

At first, the Danube was little more than a stream.  But as it progressed so did its width if not its vigour.  Indeed, in places it was a still as a millpond.  Within 25 miles the river enters a limestone gorge and the cycleway if forced uphill and down.  Cotswold stone like in colour, abandoned castles and occupied churches and houses can be seen on the cliff-side edge.  And in the valley Boy Scout camp tents had been erected.  Then the Danube emerges into calmer territory and at Sigmaringendorf, journey's end for the day, the charming Hotel Rogenboden and its angel of a proprietor, Ingrid.  Angel?  She washed the boys' disgustingly dirty clothes and hung them out to dry!!!

Day 11: Eguisheim in France crossing the Rhine to Freiburg in Germany and the Black Forest

Having cycled more than 1,200 Kms (750 miles) Bob and Mark are more than a third of the way on their quest to cycle from the West Midlands Marie Curie Hospice in Solihull to Istanbul and the edge of Europe.  However, as today's events unfolded there was plenty of evidence of the dangers to come.

Another sun-soaked morning in beautiful Eguisheim, Storks to be seen nesting on top of the Church tower and the tallest roofs. 

A stork in its nest (not on Mark's shoulder!)

Mark standing in the centre of Eguisheim, Alsace, France

A late start saw the boys head for Colmar and 15 miles later, cross the Rhine into Germany.  The city of Freiburg combines mediaeval architecture with modern eco-conservancy.  But it was the old city centre irrigation channels (Bachle) that caught the eye.  Young and old were paddling in these and playing with toy boats.  Only Ollantaytambo on the trail to Machu Picchu in Peru appears to have anything similar.

Unfortunately, late afternoon was spent dodging heavy traffic on the B31 as Bob and Mark wound their way into the heart of the Black Forest.  The cycle routes had disappeared and it was a hair-raising experience for much of the time.  Eventually the village of Loffingen was found and with it the Hexenschopf Hotel - from where this entry is being made.

Day 10: Saverne to Eguisheim in Alsace down the 'Routes des Vins'

The weather has finally broken, with rain first thing this morning and a heavy shower during the late afternoon.  And on the positive side, for the first time since this 'tour' began temperatures have not breached 30 degrees.

Yesterday the boys passed a war cemetery at Cutting, testimony to the Lorraine Offensive by the French Army in the August of 1914 and in which even the commanding officer was killed.  And this morning heading south from Saverne, a roadside memorial with both French and British flags flying honoured the deaths of two French soldiers and two Royal Air Force crew members - all of whom had died during the Second World War.

Cemetery at Cutting of those French Soldiers who fought in the Lorraine Offensive, August,1918

Memorial to 2 French Soldiers and 2 Royal Air Force Crew Members who died in 1944 during the Second World War

After such sadness, the start of the Alsace 'Routes des Vins' came as a welcome redress.  Highly picturesque territory between the Vosges mountains in the west and the Rhine to the east, the hillsides are emblazoned with vineyards specialising in wines like Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gawurtztraminer.  Plenty of 'degustation' tasting houses too, but as Bob and Mark are in no position to buy and carry bottles of wine, they were given a wide berth.

Sign for the 'Route des Vins' in Alsace

Finally, that most beautiful of 'Routes des Vins' villages, Eguisheim, came into view as the boys cycled the back route through the vinyards.  Seen at its best in the mid-evening sunlight, it was the perfect journey's end to an unexpectedly hard day's cycling.

Day 9: Metz in Lorraine to Saverne in Alsace via a parched landscape

No respite from the sun's rays for most of today as the boys headed south-east in the Department Moselle.  Throughout this journey to date evidence of the economic downturn has been ever present, with closed shops in every city and town passed through.  However, what has also been witnessed is the number of agricultural vehicles on the roads, as farmers across western Europe take advantage of the current heat-wave to bring in the harvest.

From the city of Metz, Bob and Mark passed through a litany of small villages along the D999, stopping for a breather in Morhange before continuing on the D27 and D38 to Fenetrange - sunflowers beginning to ripen in many of the fields along the route.  Once on the outskirts of Phalsbourg the change in architecture was discernible, with the chocolate box styles of the Rhineland becoming dominant.

With a repeat of last night's performance, a storm was now brewing and dust-clouds erupting.  In a final 6 mile dash the boys raced to Saverne, passing into Alsace and enjoying the four mile descent from the Col de Saverne.  They only just made it before the heavens opened once again.

Leaving Belgium and the Ardennes for Metz and Lorraine in France

The good weather finally broke this evening with an almighty thunderstorm here in the City of Metz, Lorraine, in north-east France.  Luckily, Bob and Mark had arrived half an hour earlier and thereby escaped the deluge - if not the sunburn of the day's cycling.

With almost 80 miles covered today, after the noise of Florenville's early morning disco, the boys escaped to the silence of Villers-devant-Orval and its two abbeys.  

 

Abbaye d'Orval

Soon after midday they left Belgium for the final time and headed south-east into France and Lorraine - one of the country's 'lost' regions following the Franco-Prussian War in the 1880's (not a lot of people know that).

This is a sparsely populated agricultural area and the villages and small towns often have no shop or bar.  Banks and hairdressers of course, but in Mercy-le-Bas there was no mercy on offer in the form of cold drinks.  Somewhere after Landres Bob sustained a slow puncture in his rear tyre, fixed outside the Boulangerie-Cafe in St Privat-la-Montagne.  The baker took pity on the dynamic duo and as he closed up shop at 7pm, gave them each a fully filled baguette.  Great 3 mile downhill section into Metz and once inside their two star hotel, Bob and Mark tucked into their freebie meal.  Well, very little helps!

Bob mends a puncture

Day 7: Rocroi in France via the Ardennes to Florenville and a final night in Belgium

Our breakfast was the typical bread and jam affair at the hotel: you don't expect much more for 6 Euros.  Thereafter, the real slog through the Ardennes began although following the Sousse river valley provided some level of respite.

Back in Belgium and the province of Namur, Bob and Mark took a short stop in the beautiful riverside village of Bohan-sur-Semois before continuing on through the Ardennnes.  Another return into France and then the Luxembourg province of Belgium with a fabulous 'do before you die' 5 mile downhill run into the town of Bouillon.  A sort of Blackpool on the river with temperatures back in the 30's, the boys only stopped for a quick late lunch.

And finally, to Florenville, a border town where the celebrations for Independence Day were in full swing.  As a consequence, our final night in Belgium was heralded with a firework display at 11pm, followed by an outdoor disco that went on until 2am!  Not what you desire when the hotel room backs onto the auditorium and you have to have the windows wide open because temperatures are roasting.

Bouillon (AKA Blackpool on the River) 

Day 6: Anonynous autoroute hotel near Mons, via Chimay to Rocroi in France

Bob and Mark cycled back into France this evening and are staying at a one star hotel in the Ardennes' Departement village of Rocroi - a 16th Century fortified place with a star shaped design.  Fairly basic hotel, but not bad for 56 Euros.

Escape from the cheap and not so cheerful motorway hotel couldn't come sooner, but there were no cafes serving breakfast in the market town of Binches - just all manner of birds for sale in cages and the locals sipping beer at 10am.  A coffee each was secured in nearby Thuin where the landlord supplied a map of local cycle routes.  For almost 20 miles the boys were then able to avoid the traffic by cycling along the largely gradient free former railway line.

Highlight of the day was the town of Chimay, renowned for its Abbey, Trappist Ales and this weekend's motorcycle racing which meant Bob and Mark were forced to endure a 10 mile diversion.  Nevertheless, the Queen Mary British themed pub was a real find, complete with Chimay beer on draft and Croque Monsieur (that's cheese and ham on toast for the unitiated) as a very late brunch at 4pm!

Bob outside the preserved Tram Railway in Thuin 

Day 5: Ypres to an anonymous hotel near Mons via the Silly brewery

Bob and Mark ate at the Istanbul kebab house in Ypres last night - it being somewhat appropriate.  Not the best of night's sleep thanks to the early morning scaffolding erectors, but breakfast at the Old Tom was sufficiently continental.

After a photocall at the Menin Gate, the boys crossed backwards and forwards over the Belgium/France border, before skirting the city of Lille and heading for Mons.  In the heat of late afternoon (temperatures in the low 30's again today) a slight diversion to the town of Silly and its brewery caused Mark to fall off his bike (before imbibing!) thanks to a photo opportunity at the Silly sign.  No puns please!

Unfortunately, there were no hotels in journeys end, the town of Soignies or in Le Roeulx,  forcing Bob and Mark to cycle still further to a motorway combined service area and its budget hotel.  Not sure that the sound of motorway traffic through the wide open bedroom window is how we envisaged Belgium during the planning stage.

Mark outside the Silly Brewery - after falling off his bike!

Day 4: Steve crashes out; Bob crashes; and Last Post at the Menin Gate 

This Thursday morning Bob and Mark said goodbye to Steve 'Bungo' Broatch at Dover Priory train station, leaving just the less than dynamic duo to cross the channel by ferry.  Foggy all the way and having docked at Dunkirk, the mist followed us inland for the first two hours.  At least the cycling was easy on this flat terrain and come 3.30pm the boys had crossed the border from France into Belgium.  The original plan had been to stop at Bruges this evening, but after the past three days' genuinely gruelling cycling, Bob and Mark have decided to take a more direct route to Istanbul.  And then disaster struck!

Heading into the town of Poperinge in West Flanders, Bobs Dawes Galaxy road bike caught some loose tarmac on the cycleway and he skidded against a wall.  A trickle of blood down his right leg looked bad, more so the immediate swelling on his shin.  It had the hallmark of a fracture, but thankfully that wasn't the case.  And two small beers in the town's Good Beer Guide recommended Café de la Paix did the trick of recovery.

Before 7pm and the boys were checked in at the Old Tom two star hotel on the Grote Markt in the very centre of Ypres.  This meant they were able to witness at the Menin Gate (with hundreds of others tourists) a service of remembrance.  Buglers sounded the Last Post amidst the marble walls on which are inscribed the names of the 54,896 allied soldiers whose bodies were never found in the immediate area during and after the First World War.  This was especially poignant in the 99th year after that terrible conflict began.

Bob and Mark cross the border from France into Belgium.

Day 3 and Bob, Steve and Mark have arrived in Dover on the English coast after covering more than 230 miles since they left the West Midlands Marie Curie Hospice in Solihull on Wednesday morning.  And due to the current heatwave, it's been a gruelling bike ride to date, with temperatures hitting 34 degrees centigrade on both Monday and Tuesday!  This meant that despite early starts on Days 2 (in Abingdon, Oxfordshire) and 3 (Redhill in Surrey) the boys have not checked into their B&B's until after 9pm in the evening.

At the Marie Curie Hospice the send-off was headed by Shirley Lions President Gillian Conlon, Lions Martin Conlon and Ken Barker and from the fundraising team, Tracey Finnegan and Rachel Nash.  And as a result of Andy Gregory's kind mention on Facebook, retired cop Paul Mann was also present and joined us for the first hour's cycling as far as Lapworth.

Day 1 then took the team via Stratford-upon-Avon to Shipston-on-Stour, the outskirts of Oxford and eventually Abingdon where the team check-in just as it was getting dark.  And as previously arranged, Paul (Robbo) Robinson left the team and returned home on the morning of Day 2.  After Abingdon the boys crossed the River Thames several times before hitting Henley-on-Thames (great tea-shop at Maison Blanc), Ascot, lunch at The Four Horseshoes near Chobham (34 degrees centigrade), Leatherhead and via Box Hill and the Olympic Road Race Route to Reigate and finally Redhill where they spent the night. 

 Robbo leaves the posse at Abingdon, as arranged

Day 3 began in Redhill and headed east into Kent and Royal Tunbridge Wells.  East Sussex was visited with a pint at the 15th Century Elephant's Head, before a hard climb up to Goudhurst in Kent.  Despite a sea breeze providing some comfort after Lamberhurst, it was a hard slog to Hythe, Folkestone and finally Dover after more than 80 miles in a single day.

A new adventure .... Istanbul or Bust

This is just a short post to start us off ......

At 1100hrs, on Monday 15th July 2012, we're setting off for Istanbul on our trusty bikes ....... and cycling the 2,100 miles to raise money for the Marie Curie (West Midlands)  Hospice, Solihull.

Gillian Conlon, Chair of the Shirley Lions Club and Marie Curie staff members will be waving us off on our trip.

Over the next few weeks we will be making our way across Europe, and following the River Danube for a considerable stretch of the 2,100 miles journey.  We are aiming to raise at least £10,000 on this trip.

Participating this year will be Mark Stokes, Bob Tench, Paul Robinson and Steve Broatch ....

Keep checking in on this blog for regular updates and progress along the way - Many thanks!

President of Shirley Lions Club, Gillian Conlon, wishes Steve, Mark and Bob good luck as they set off from the West Midlands Marie Curie Hospice in Solihull.